CONSTRUCTION OF HOT-BEDS. 47 



usually are, no water should be given until they are again 

 moved out to the light in May. Remember that thus im- 

 mersed in the dark cellar in their dormant state, water or 

 moisture would injure them beyond recovery, unless they 

 have become unusually dry. 



CHAPTER IX. 



CONSTRUCTION OF HOT-BEDS. 



The most economical way of making hot-beds is to 

 place the manure in pits made in the way described for 

 Cold Frames, except that they may be made a foot or so 

 deeper, so as to admit at least 18 inches of manure. 

 The heating material for hot-beds is usually horse-manure, 

 but refuse hops, leaves from the woods, or tan bark, will 

 answer nearly as well when one is more readily attainable 

 than another. 



Whatever material is employed, it should be thrown into 

 a heap of sufficient size to generate heat, and repeatedly 

 turned until the rank heat has been expelled, which will 

 usually be done by turning twice. The mass will be in the 

 proper condition to be put into the pit in eight or ten 

 days from the time of starting with the raw material. In 

 spreading it in the pit it should be firmly trodden down 

 to the depth of 18 inches, so that the heat may be longer 

 retained. If the hot-bed is to be used to receive plants 

 in pots, a covering of 4 to 6 inches of sawdust, in which 

 to place or plunge the pots, should be put over the 

 heating material. If the bed is to be used for the sowing 

 of annual or other seeds, a covering of 6 inches of light 

 soil should be put over the manure. Before placing plants 

 or sowing seeds in the hot-bed, plunge a thermometer 

 in the bed, and when the heat begins to decline from 100 



