THE INLAND PASSAGE. 53 



Charleston, bidding good bye to its pretty streets, 

 its tall spires, its beautiful gardens, and its pleasant 

 inhabitants, among whom we must especially men- 

 tion Commander Merril Miller of the Light-house 

 service, who was very kind in furnishing us charts 

 and assisting us in many ways. We bid a last farewell 

 to Forts Su inter and Moultrie, and all the historic 

 memories which are entwined with those names ; to 

 Sullivan's Island, the Coney Island of Charleston, to 

 the Three Sisters, three palmettos which guard the 

 gate where once the confederate soldier stood sentry, 

 and to the tomb of Oceola close by, to the buzzards 

 and the beauties of the city, catching a last glimpse of 

 White Point Park to which we waived a tender adieu. 

 We headed our course to wards the creek which has re- 

 ceived the euphuistic appellation of " Wappoo Cut." 

 We carried away from Charleston this one valuable 

 piece of information: to make " Hop-in- John," boil 

 one quart of cow peas (a sort of small bean), and one 

 pound of bacon till thoroughly cooked, then put in 

 two quarts of rice, boil for about half an hour longer 

 and until well done, then add salt and pepper. This 

 recipe came from the colored chef of the Charleston 

 hotel and must be correct. Hence hereafter no man 

 or woman can claim to be so ignorant that they can- 

 not cook "Hop-in- John." 



Beyond Charleston we had our first disagreeable 

 adventure ; it occurred when we were running 

 through Wappoo Cut. We had been offered a 

 volunteer tow by a small steam tug that we 

 met there, but had hardly hitched fast to her, 



