GREENHOUSE AND WINDOW. 



69 



forcing is dangerous, even by experienced 

 plant growers. 



Give a little air on hot sunny days, 70° to 

 75° in day time and 55° to 60° at night is a 

 good temperature at this season of the year. 

 Close ventilators early in the day. 



THE WINDOW. 



Plants in the window will begin to feel 

 the increased heat of the sun. The latter 

 will necessitate a close watch being kept for 

 insect pests. The best way to avoid trouble 

 with tne insect pests is to try and prevent 

 them from making their appearance at all. 

 Keeping all growing plants such as fuch- 

 sias, cyperus, geraniums, calla lilies, etc., 

 fairly well moistened at the roots, and 

 syringing or sprinkling the foliage of the 

 plants two or three times a week with luke 

 warm water, are about the safest preventives 

 of the appearance of insect pests. A little 

 weak tobacco water in the water the plants 

 are syringed with, applied once a week, will 

 prevent the attacks of some of these enemies 

 of plant life. No plant cap flourish when 

 attacked by insects, and it is very hard to 

 get rid of them when once they have gained 

 headway. 



Chrysanthemum plants, that are wanted to 

 be kept for cuttings, should be kept in a 

 rather cool temperature, about 50° suits 

 them. They require less water now than 

 when in flower. 



Seed Sowing. — There are few seeds that 

 can be sown to advantage just yet, except 

 perhaps those recommended for the green- 

 house, such as petunias and verbenas, both 

 of which require quite a length of the time 

 before good sized plants will be produced. 



Cold Dips. — Watch out for sudden cold 

 dips, February and March are treacherous 

 months in this respect. The hot sun in the 

 day time often lures the plant lover into a 

 feeling of false security and induces neglect 

 in taking proper precautions against the ex- 

 treme cold often experienced at night at this 

 season of the year. If by any chance your 

 plants should be frozen, place them at once 

 in a warm corner of the room where the 

 temperature is a few degrees above freezing. 

 Cover the plants up carefully and keep them 

 in the dark for twenty four hours until the 

 frost is out of them. You may perhaps in 

 this way save them, if not frozen too badly. 

 I consider this treatment preferable to delug- 

 ing the plants with cold water as is some- 

 times recommended. Even if the latter 

 course is taken with the plants, keeping 

 them dark for a day or so will help them 

 materially. Avoid bringing plants that have 

 been frozen into a high temperature, and 

 keep them away from bright sunlight for a 

 week or two after they have been frozen. 

 They will also need less water for a time, 

 until root action and growth have well 

 commenced. 



Hamilton. W. Hunt. 



Petunias. — For pot culture quite as well 

 as for lawn decoration, both the single and 

 double petunias are very suitable. Consid- 

 ering the ease with which they may be 

 grown, the beauty and freedom of their 

 bloom, especially in the single varieties, and 

 their long season, it is indeed hard to 

 find any plants better suited to the amateur's 

 needs. To raise pot plants from seeds select 

 your seeds in January and sow at any time 

 up to March. Petunias have the smallest 



seeds and in sowing should be covered 

 very lightly. It is a good plan to sow in a 

 pot, covering the pot with glass until the 

 seedlings are up. With the use of the glass 

 less water is necessary which is an advan- 

 tage in the case of such fine seed. As soon 

 as the seedlings are up so that they can be 

 handled, they should be pricked out into a 

 pan, afterwards giving each plant a two-inch 

 pot to itself, later shitting on as growth de- 

 mands. — Vick s Mosrazine. 



