476 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



bound around the tops, would be a benefit 

 where extreme cold prevails, and where, 

 perhaps, the snow fall is light or uncertain. 

 The rush matting- used for covering tea 

 chests, wrapped several times around the 

 plant, makes a splendid winter covering for 

 roses or any tender plants, as it to a great 

 extent, excludes moisture, and still allows 

 a circulation of air to the plant sufficient to 

 prevent rot and mildew — the latter often 

 occuring when plants are covered up too 

 closely so as to admit no air at all to the 

 plant. 



Roses on their own roots are hardier than 

 budded or grafted plants. Even these 

 would benefit by some protection around 

 about the base of the stem and over the 

 roots, even if the growth was not altogether 

 covered. It is best in all cases, however, 

 to leave the mulching or covering of plants 

 until late in the season, when severe weather 

 is likely to set in, so as to allow the growth 

 of the plant to harden off in a natural way 

 fully exposed to the air. 



A very essential point in protecting plants 

 in the manner described is to so arrange the 

 covering, whatever it is, so that it excludes 

 as much moisture from the growth as pos- 

 sible. An old flour or sugar barrel minus 

 the lid, turned bottom up over a tender rose 

 or shrub, is a good protection. Holes 

 should be bored around the sides to admit 

 air, but the top of the barrel, when turned 

 up, should be water tight and intact. Some 

 straw or leaves placed or tied around the 

 plant before it is covered with the barrel 

 would be beneficial. 



WINDOW PLANTS 



The advent of colder weather means in- 

 creased fire heat, the latter also meaning 

 an increased aridity or dryness of the atmos- 

 phere. The latter condition will probably 

 induce a visit from insect pests, unless pre- 

 cautions are taken to prevent their appear- 

 ance. Green fly and red spider are most to 



be feared, especially the latter, as their 

 appearance is not as easily detected as that 

 of the aphis or green fly. Copious sprink- 

 ling and syringing with cold water is the 

 best preventive for the attacks of the so- 

 called red spider. Salvias, Fuchsias, Roses 

 and Carnations are first favorites with this 

 little pest. When first attacked, the leaves 

 of these plants present a whitish, dusty- 

 looking appearance, especially on the under- 

 neath side, and the leaves will soon 

 commence dropping unless the plants are 

 regularly and thoroughly sprinkled or 

 syringed once or twice every day. Tobacco 

 water, as recommended in the September 

 number is the best remedy for green fly, 

 although tobacco leaf or stems, or even a 

 cigar thoroughly dried and rubbed into a 

 fine powder and sprinkled on the plants 

 infested with green fly will generally rid the 

 plant of them. The latter application is 

 best made after the plants have been re- 

 cently sprinkled or syringed, as the tobacco 

 dust adheres better when the foliage of the 

 plant is moist. 



FREESIAS 



Pots of these that are well started should 

 have the full benefit of the sun and sufficient 

 water to keep the soil moist, but not sod- 

 dened. Freesias do not like liquid manure, 

 and do not require it if the soil they are in 

 is only of a fair average fertility as gener- 

 ally used for pot plants. 



REX BEGONIAS 



Plants of these that have, perhaps, been 

 resplendent with their beautifully marked 

 foliage, will generally show rapid signs of 

 decay towards winter. This is quite natural 

 in these plants at this season of the year 

 and is indicative that the plants require 

 a period of partial rest, and it is best to 

 allow them this period of partial rest when 

 the leaves present the appearance mentioned. 

 It is useless to deluge the plants with water 

 at the roots as is often done when the plants 



