334 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



After Treatment. — A temperature of 

 •60 to 65 degrees and a partially shaded po- 

 sition, well sheltered from strong draughts 

 and high winds suits these begonias, 

 whether they are grown in the window or 

 •out of doors. Sweeping winds are even 

 more harmful than the sun when the plants 

 have become hardened, but partial shade in 

 the hottest part of the day is very beneficial 

 if good blooms and clear, clean foliage is 

 -desired. A cold frame covered with a sash 

 thinly shaded with a coat of whitewash and 

 the frame placed so that it slopes and faces 

 towards the north will suit tuberous be- 

 ;gonias very well during the hot summer 

 months. The sash can be removed during 

 the hottest part of the day to advantage, 

 more especially if the plants are shaded 

 ^lightly from the direct rays of the sun. 

 Plenty of ventilation, by tilting the sash 

 should be given both night and day, as these 

 begonias dislike a too close humid atmos- 

 phere to grow in. Partial shade, careful 

 watering, plenty of air, shelter from winds, 

 and a fairly rich light loamy soil are the 

 main essentials necessary for the successful 

 <:ulture of the tuberous begonia. 



Drying off and Resting Tubers. — To- 

 wards fall, when the flowers and foliage be- 

 gin to look shabby and rusty, less water 

 •should be given the plants. When the foli- 

 age has become nearly yellow and the flower 

 stems begin to decay, no more water should 

 "be given them, but they should be removed 

 to a dry warm shed and kept quite dry and 

 free from frost. A dry temperature of 

 about 45 or 50 degrees suits the tuberous 

 "begonia splendidly when dormant in the 



winter, but at no time should either the 

 growth or the tuber be exposed to a tem- 

 perature below 40 degrees. 



Where a number of these begonias are 

 grown it is customary to shake the tubers 

 out of the soil and pack them in sand, char- 

 coal, etc., but I have had the best results by 

 ? flowing the tubers to dry off in the sofl 

 they have grown in, and by placing them 

 away in the pots in a dry cool temperature 

 15 or 20 degrees above freezing point, and 

 keeping the soil perfectly dry during winter 

 until the following spring, when they are 

 shaken out of the pots and treated as I have 

 described. 



I have omitted any mention of the start- 

 ing of these begonias from seed, as I con- 

 sider their culture from seed is not only a 

 delicate operation to be successfully carried 

 out without the aid of a green house or at 

 least a sash and frame, and as the tubers can 

 be purchased very cheaply when dormant 

 ?nd give quick results, it is scarcely worth 

 while waiting for the more tedious and un- 

 certain results attained when the plants are 

 raised from seed, as it would take at least 

 two seasons before seedling plants could be 

 had in flower if the seed was started in pots 

 in the window. 



Tuberous rooted begonias are decidedly 

 an amateur's flower, and are much easier 

 grown than many varieties of window plants 

 if given only fair treatment in their culture. 

 Too much water, when the tubers are first 

 started, and improper drainage is too often 

 the cause of failure in the culture of the 

 tuberous begonia. 



