98 A NATURALIST IN THE GUIANAS 



torchlight, if I have digressed awhile, yet I have kept in 

 view the principal object of my narrative by describing 

 the habits of the people and other creatures in the country 

 I am writing about, and comparing them with those of 

 other countries. 



We had left ' The Gates of Hell ' behind us at ten in 

 the morning ; we reached Mapire, which is certainly no part 

 of Heaven, at about four in the afternoon. Most of the 

 steamers stop here for the purpose of replenishing their 

 store of fuel, which rarely lasts more than a day, as a 

 supply for a longer period would take up so much space 

 -that there would be but little room left for freight. The 

 question of fuel is the great trouble captains of steamers 

 have to contend with on the Orinoco. As a rule, each 

 steamer or line of steamers has its contractors, who are 

 supposed to keep supplies of firewood ready for shipment 

 at different spots on the river's banks. If the owner of 

 any particular stack of wood happens to be in the vicinity 

 of his merchandise when the steamer he supplies arrives, 

 he checks the quantity taken and gets paid either in cash 

 or by an order on Ciudad-Bolivar. But his absence never 

 causes the captain a moment's anxiety. The latter blows 

 his whistle once or twice and allows ten minutes for which 

 he charges no demurrage. Then he sends a part of his 

 crew on shore, who proceed to take in all the wood 

 required. A note is taken of the quantity shipped, more or 

 less, and the steamer tramps contentedly away. Imagine 

 the introduction of this state of affairs into the trans- 

 actions of the methodical Anglo-Saxon or the still more 

 methodical Gael. Think of a customer walking into the 

 shop of the grocer who supplies his wants, while that 

 gentleman's back is turned, and helping himself to a pound 

 of butter. Go and tell that grocer afterwards that yon 



