174 REMINISCENCES OF 



and all the children, we presume, slept in the other 

 at least we heard nothing to the contrary. 



When we had investigated for a few minutes, our 

 hostess called us for tea ; and there on the green- 

 sward we found a table laden with cakes freshly 

 baked in peat ash, piles of fresh butter, and tea such 

 as I had never dreamed of before. We three sat at 

 the table ; around us were fowls, ducks, geese, pigs in 

 plenty, dogs, cats, donkeys, and children, all somewhat 

 astonished at the innovation. We had the mountains 

 behind us, the sea in front; beyond, the Ayrshire 

 coast, the mouth of the Clyde, and the Island of 

 Bute; whilst to the north stretched the placid waters 

 of Loch Fyne, alive with herring-boats. A few 

 yards from us gurgled a lovely little mountain 

 stream our only lavatory. 



We spent the evening climbing the mountains, 

 watching the setting sun, and revelling in the purity 

 of the air and beauty of the situation. 



As may be imagined, we retired late and rose 

 early ; but were scarcely ready when we saw a boat 

 approaching, rowed by a couple of vigorous quarry- 

 men, who not only brought us fine fresh fish and 

 bread for breakfast, but were come to help us in 

 digging out our trees. Breakfast was, if possible, an 

 improvement even upon our tea of the previous day, 

 insomuch as now everything glistened in morning 

 light and sparkled with dew. After a hearty meal, 

 we set to work, first clearing away much of a hard 

 layer of volcanic ash under which the cluster of 



