SHADE TREES. 



157 



It would be better to prepare tree beds 2 to 3 feet deep and 20 to 30 feet square, 

 filled with good loamy soil where the present ground is dry and sandy gravel, even 

 if the expense of doing so would be so great that only one tree a year could be 

 planted. 



Few trees, however, outside of those planted in the Arnold Arboretum 

 and on a few private estates receive any such treatment. It must 

 be borne in mind in planting that shade trees are always under more or 

 less disadvantageous conditions as regards atmosphere and soil. Hence it 

 is of the greatest importance that they should be aided as much as pos- 

 sible, and the time is not far distant when much more specific methods 

 must be employed in the planting of street trees in thickly settled com- 

 munities. Even at the present tune, where ideal conditions are sought 

 much more money is spent in prepara- 

 tion for transplanting than in purchase 

 of the trees. The majority of street 

 trees which are planted are not sup- 

 plied with loam or placed in holes over 

 2 or 3 feet wide and 15 inches deep, 

 and some of them are given space only 

 large enough to contain their roots. 

 Loosening up the soil to a considerable 

 depth is very important, as shown by 

 the results of the use of dynamite in the 

 preparation of soil for transplanting. A 

 hole 5 to 6 feet wide by 20 inches deep 

 in any case should be the smallest used, 

 and it should be as much larger as can 

 be afforded. 



When digging up young trees the 

 roots should be preserved as much as 

 possible, and the more earth taken up 

 with the roots the better. The roots 



should not be exposed to sun and wind, and if possible should be kept 

 covered and moist. For this purpose damp straw, bagging or sphagnum 

 moss may be used. 



It is usually the practice to place the best side of the tree toward the 

 north and the poorest toward the south, since the light conditions on the 

 south side are better, and naturally better growth results. It is also 

 advisable to lean a tree toward the direction of the prevailing winds, 

 and if these are strong enough to interfere with the growth of the tree it 

 should be fastened to a strong stake. Trees obtained from the field where 

 they have been growing close together have long, slender shafts and are 

 top-heavy. When such trees are planted in windy situations it is neces- 

 sary to support them by stakes. 



When the ground is prepared for planting, the injured roots should be 

 recut so that healing may take place, and before being covered they 



FIG. 19. Elm severely cut back when 

 transplanted. This has destroyed 

 its natural symmetry. 



