96 FOREST PLANTING. 



Diciduous trees can be transplanted more easily with- 

 out ball, especially when they have been already trans- 

 planted, and thereby acquired a better developed root- 

 system. 



PLANTING WITHOUT BALL. 



The larger deciduous trees of from six to twelve feet 

 in height are always transplanted without ball. It is, 

 however, advisable to manage the transplanting so as to 

 retain some of the old soil between the rootlets and 

 fibres. The holes are dug according to the extent of the 

 roots, so that they may have room in width and depth, 

 without changing in the form they have grown. 



On heavy soil the holes should be opened in the fall, 

 if spring planting is intended, in order that the winter 

 frost may assist in breaking up the soil mechanically. At 

 planting time the young trees, unless they have been taken 

 up in fall and safely heeled in during the winter, are 

 taken out of the nursery, injured roots and such as ex- 

 tend too deep (especially the taproots) being trimmed 

 off, the clay brine already mentioned is used, and the 

 trees brought to the holes. Holding the tree with the 

 left hand perpendicularly, the forest planter, using a hoe 

 in his right hand, fills the spaces between the roots with 

 loose humus soil. If horizontal roots are bent down in 

 this process, they should be raised up, and supported 

 with earth so as to keep their natural position. For such 

 trees as have root systems which incline to lateral exten- 

 sion (Spruces, Beeches, etc.), a little mound of earth 

 should be made at the bottom of the plant-hole, upon 

 which the tree is set, so that the roots spread out in a 

 natural way. Special attention must be given that the 

 roots are perfectly imbedded in the soil without leaving 

 cavities, and that the original position of the fibres be 

 maintained. The fertile top soil dug from the plant- 



