XVI 



RESIDENCE AT TARAPOTO 



journeys with mules, but though there are a few 

 mules there are no roads on which they can be 

 taken with cargoes. Between Moyobamba and the 

 Huallaga all cargoes must be carried on Indians' 

 backs, and indeed throughout the eastern slope of 

 the Cordillera the roads rarely admit of any 

 other mode. The number of Indians is constantly 

 diminishing, and barely suffices for the ordinary 

 traffic of the district. I have ridden a few times 

 across the pampa to the hills, but for longer excur- 

 sions this mode does not suit. The journey 

 alluded to at the opening of my letter was to visit 

 a mountain lying beyond the Mayo, at two days 

 from Moyobamba and three from Tarapoto. It is 

 called the Campana, from some fancied resemblance 

 to a bell, and the road crosses it at about 3500 

 feet l (by barometer) above the plain of Tarapoto ; 

 but there is a peak to northward of the pass rising 

 a thousand feet higher. It differs notably from 

 the adjacent mountains by being nearly all pasto, 

 only the valleys and ravines towards its base being 

 filled with forest, in which abundance of palms are 

 conspicuous. The only habitation there is a chacra 

 on the side next Moyobamba, at 1500 feet below 

 the pass, and with no other dwelling nearer than ;i 

 day's journey. Here I established myself with a 

 stock of paper, and with provisions for three weeks, 

 which I had taken the necessary precaution <>l 

 carrying with me from Tarapoto. My cargoes 

 loaded five men on the way thither and six on the 

 return. I have reason to be satisfied with my 

 success at the Campana, and 1 should probabl) 



1 Perhaps 5000 feet ;I!M>VC tin- sea, I'm I havi 

 below the mouth of the Kin V 



