CANELOS TO BAftOS 141 



plantations of yucas, plantains, yams, etc., and 

 about nine we reached a house where we found an 

 old man and several women. Here we remained 

 an hour, and I bought a cock of the old man, 

 though I must needs shoot it with my gun, as it 

 was wild and would not allow itself to be caught, 

 he said. After a short chase among the wet 

 yucas, I brought it down and we bore it off in 

 triumph. It took us two hours more to reach the 

 centre of the settlement, where are the Curaca's 

 and two other houses. The way was very muddy, 

 and in that short distance traversed by above 

 twenty streams, with steep slippery descents to 

 them. It was noon as we reached the Curaca's 

 house. We had had drizzling rain for some time 

 this morning, which with the heavy rain of yester- 

 day and the soft muddy nature of the earth had 

 put the track in very bad order and we reached 

 our halting-place in pitiable plight. A good many 

 years ago, it seems, some missionary had induced 

 these Jibaros to become Christians, and to erect a 

 church and convent, after the fashion of those of 

 Canelos and Puca-yacu, but they have long ago 

 renounced Christianity and the church has fallen to 

 decay. The convent was still tenantable and we 

 took possession of it that is, I and my servants, 

 for the Indians installed themselves in the Curaca's 

 house. The Curaca was absent in the forest and 

 did not return till evening, when I bought a couple 

 of fowls and some plantains of him. His name is 

 Hueleca a young man of middle stature, slender in 

 body, but with remarkably muscular arms and legs. 

 Compared with our " Christian ' Indians from 

 Sara-yacu, we found him a person of gentlemanly 



