CH. xix IN THE ECUADOREAN ANDES 199 



It is a striking sight to look over the great 

 square at Riobamba on a market-day, and see it 

 crowded with Indians and rustics in dresses of the 

 gayest colours ; while the shops that surround the 

 square have their glittering and gaudy wares hung 

 outside, or spread out on mats on the wide pave- 

 ment ; and at the back, Chimborazo towers high 

 into the sky its snow shining in the sun like 

 polished silver and seems to touch the very 

 houses of the town at its base, although half a day's 

 journey away. 



Several snowy peaks, besides Chimborazo, are 

 visible from Riobamba, the chief being El Altar, 

 La Candelaria, Sangay, and Tunguragua. The last I 

 call my mountain, because I explored its Hanks for 

 seven months, from Barios. I made a desperate 

 attempt to get in at the south-western side of it, 

 from Riobamba, and devoted several days to it, but 

 paid dearly for my presumption. My aim was to 

 ascend by a magnificent cataract, called Guandisagua, 

 which comes out from under the snowy cope of 

 Tunguragua, and falls at three leaps into the warm 

 valley of Capil, where flourish Seville oranges, 

 alligator-pears, and sugar-cane a total height of 

 some 8000 feet (15,700-7500). What with alter- 

 nately wading in the cold snow-water and climbing 

 up cliffy under a hot sun, I had to keep my bed for 

 four days afterwards, with rheumatic pains from 

 head to foot. 



... I met with agreeable society in Ambato 

 which I had not reckoned on. The Hon. Phil<> 

 "White, American Minister to Ecuador, resides hen . 

 with his wife, nine months in the year. Th< \ 

 find the climate suits them better than that of 



