618 



GLEANINGS IN BEE CULTURE 



[Referring to the flat-wick oil-stove as 

 mentioned by our correspondent, we have 

 found that it is really necessary to use a 

 blue-flame stove in order to furnish enough 

 steam to keep the knife hot when it is im- 

 bedded in the cold honey, as is the case 

 when uncapping bulged comb. 



If an oil-stove is used, care must be tak- 

 en to see that the asbestos ring wluch takes 

 the place of a wick is not covered with car- 

 bon; otherwise it is diilicult to control the 

 heat, and under such conditions the valve 

 must be opened so wide to keep the stove 

 burning at all that entirely too much flame 

 strikes the boiler, with the result that the 

 steam blows furiously from the end of the 

 knife, and the water in the boiler is evap- 

 orated too quickly. A gasoline-burner can 

 usually be controlled rather easier than an 

 oil-burner. With the proper control of the 

 heat, three quarts of water in the boiler will 

 run the knife half a day. 



There has been considerable difference of 

 opinion in regard to the length of the blade 

 of the knife. With pombs that are bulged, 

 there is no doubt in our mind but that a 

 long blade is an advantage. With combs 

 that are rather closely spaced, so that the 

 surface is depressed in places, the shorter 

 blade seems to be handier. We ourselves 

 prefer a blade a trifle shorter than the 

 width of the comb. With a sawing motion 

 the cut is easily extended the entire width 

 of the comb, and then when a comb is to be 

 uncapped, the surface of which is depress- 

 ed somewhat below the top-bar, the shorter 

 blade comes in handy, for it can be tilte^ 

 slightly, and works down into the depres- 

 sions easily. However, much depends upon 

 the manner of using the knife. 



For best results in using a honey-pump, 

 the shortest possible length of pipe must 

 be used between the extractor and the 

 pump. A long pipe creates so much fric- 

 tion that the honey does not run by gravity 

 to the pump fast enough. The pump will 

 not deliver honey to its full capacity unless 

 the honey runs to it by gravity as fast as 

 the pump can handle it. For this reason 

 the pump should be a little lower than the 

 opening into the extractor, and the tube 

 should be as short as possible. Moreover, 

 the tube must not show any tendency to 

 kink, as this reduces its capacity. 



A rubber hose is not to be advised for 

 conveying the honey from the pump to the 

 tank, for it is difficult to prevent it frqm 

 kinking slightly at the points where it is 

 supported, thus reducing the capacity of 

 the hose and causing a back pressure on 

 the pumo. 



Probably it would be better to use a 

 flange pulley on the extractor shaft; al- 



though if there is a decided tendency of the 

 belt to slip off, the flange pulley will not 

 overcome the difficulty, for the edge of the 

 belt would ride the flange and in a short 

 time ruin the belt. If the pulleys are lined 

 up properly, and the pump located so that 

 the belt will remain tight, there is no trou- 

 ble with slipping. Occasionally a piece of 

 old tough comb broken off, or a chip from 

 a broken end-bar or top-bar will find its 

 way into the suction pipe, and finally into 

 the pump. This will cause the pump to 

 stick momentarily, throwing off the belt. 

 It does no good to attempt to put the belt 

 on immediately, for it will only come off 

 again. The pump should be worked back- 

 ward a revolution or two with the hand, 

 then forward and backward a few times 

 until the obstruction is finally broken and 

 carried through the pump. Great force 

 should not be used, as there wolud be dan- 

 ger of injuring the pump. It is only oc- 

 casionally that this happens. 



A very little honey on the belt is all that 

 is necessary, a drop or two at a time being 

 sufficient. If there is any accumulation of 

 honey on the belt and pulleys it does more 

 harm than good, as our correspondent says. 

 Only a great accumulation would absorb 

 moisture from the air, and make trouble the 

 next morning. — Ed.] 



Caging the Queen in a Cage of Perforated Zinc to 

 Prevent Swarming 



Dr. G. C. Miller: — -In June 15th Gleanings you 

 gave your method of controlling swarming. I will 

 just tell you how I do it out here. When there is a 

 likelihood of the bees swarming, the strongest are 

 examined for queen-cells. If any are found they are 

 destroyed, and the queen is ca<red for ten days on 

 the top-bar in the same hive. On the tenth day make 

 an examination for queen-cells. If any are found 

 thev are destroyed. Raise the cage and liberate the 

 queen ; ventilate the hive by raising it three or four 

 inches off the bottom. If supers are on, ventilate by 

 shoving one forward and the other backward so as 

 to leave a space of Va, or % of an inch. If the queen 

 is old, kill her and allow one of the cells to hatch; 

 or a select cell, if any is on hand, is given. If not, 

 instead of liberating the queen kill her and intro- 

 duce a younsc queen. 



A piece of perforated zinc is the material of which 

 the cage is made. Bend the edges so as to bring it 

 into a trough shape. Press it on top of a frame; 

 raise one side about % ; catch the queen and put 

 her under and press down. While she is there the 

 bees won't build any more cells unless the queen 

 lays in them, which she can not do, being caged. 

 That is the way it works out here. Perhaps there is 

 a difference over on your side; but there might be 

 some variation to make it work. 



.1. E. Thompson. 



Halfway Tree, Jamaica, B. W. I., July 7. 



Dr. Miller replies: 



This is interesting, and miich the same as things 

 are done here. The cage is quite ingenious; but 

 with the queen caged I should expect my bees to start 

 cells in many if not most cases. To be sure, the 

 queen can not lay eggs in queen-cells; but the bees 

 can start cells with worker larvae. — C. C. Millef. 



