62 NOTES OF A NA TURALIST. 



appearance of wealth in the thoroughfares ; in spite of 

 all this the general aspect is novel and pleasing. 

 Although violent earthquakes have rarely occurred in 

 this region, slight shocks are very frequent, and remind 

 the inhabitants that formidable telluric forces are 

 slumbering close at hand. Hence, as a rule, the 

 houses have only a single floor above the ground, and 

 cover a proportionately large space. As in Southern 

 Spain, all those of the better class enclose a patio, or 

 courtyard, partly occupied by tropical trees or flower- 

 ing shrubs. Fronting the street, or the plaza, a long 

 projecting balcony, enclosed with glass, enables the 

 inmates to enjoy that refuge from absolute vacancy 

 which is afforded by gazing at the passers-by, and 

 which seems to supply the place of occupation to 

 much of the population even in Southern Europe. 



With scarcely an exception, the numerous churches 

 are vile examples of debased renaissance architecture, 

 fronted with stucco ornamentation in great part fallen 

 to decay. Not long before our arrival, I believe under 

 the Chilian administration, they had been all freshly 

 covered with whitewash, cut into rectangular spaces 

 by broad bands of bright blue. In the streets near 

 the great plaza there was much apparent animation 

 during the day; but the shops were closed an hour 

 before nightfall, and after dark the city was hushed 

 into unnatural silence. The fair Linienas, as to whose 

 charms travellers have been eloquent, and who used 

 to throng the public drives and walks towards sunset, 

 were no longer to be seen. To exhibit themselves 

 would be to display indifference to the misfortunes 

 of their country. Some might be observed, indeed. 



