PAISANDU. 289 



One of the peculiarities of this region arises from the 

 fact that in the estuary and along the lower course of 

 the great rivers the banks shelve so gradually that 

 boats are seldom able to approach the shore. Else- 

 where the inhabitants would make provision by con- 

 structing long jetties carried far enough to enable boats 

 to draw alongside. But suitable timber is said to be 

 scarce and very dear, and, besides, such constructions 

 would deprive a part of the population of their means 

 of gaining a livelihood. Carts with a pair of enormous 

 wheels, seven or eight feet in diameter, are driven 

 into the water till it reaches nearly to the shafts, and 

 passengers scramble as best they may into or out of 

 the boats. In this novel fashion I reached the shore, 

 with one or two other passengers. 



Paisandu has the aspect of a thriving country town, 

 with streets and buildings of plain aspect, but looking 

 clean and well cared for. It stands on rising ground, 

 which is not a hill, but merely the river-ward slope of 

 the flat country through which the Uruguay has here 

 scooped a broad trench about a hundred feet below 

 the general level. I found a very fair country inn kept 

 by an Englishman, and at once proceeded to deliver 

 a note of introduction to Dr. French, an English 

 physician who enjoys considerable local reputation. 

 The days being short at a season corresponding to 

 our European Christmas, it was already too late for 

 an excursion to the neighbouring country, which was 

 postponed till the following morning ; and I passed 

 the greater part of the afternoon and evening in the 

 agreeable society of Dr. French, whose range of general 

 information, and thorough acquaintance with the 



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