PERNAMBUCO. 351 



It is easy to understand that, as a general rule, 

 seamen are less exposed than other classes to any of 

 the injurious effects of heat, but it is remarkable that 

 they should enjoy complete exemption. Cases are 

 not very uncommon among seamen going ashore in 

 hot countries, but I have not found a well-authenticated 

 case of sun-stroke arising on board ship ; and cases of 

 thermic fever in the Red Sea usually arise in the 

 engine-room of a steamer rather than among the men 

 on deck. 



On the morning of July 29 we reached Pernambuco, 

 to wdiich I had looked forward as the last Brazilian 

 city that I was likely to see. It had been described 

 to me as the Venice of South America, and the com- 

 parison is to a slight extent justified by its position 

 on a lagoon of smooth water, separated from the open 

 roadstead by a coral reef several miles in length. It 

 enjoys the further distinction, unusual in a place 

 within eight degrees of the equator, of being remark- 

 ably healthy. But on this occasion fortune was 

 against me. 



No doubt for some sufficient reason, we did not 

 enter the rather intricate passage leading inside the 

 reef, but lay to in rough water outside. For a short 

 time the scene was brilliant. The hot sun beat down 

 on the deep blue water, and lit up the foam on the 

 crests of the dancing waves, and the sky overhead 

 showed such a pure azure that one could not suppose 

 the air to be saturated with vapour. Before long 

 boats were seen approaching, tossed to and fro in the 

 broken water ; but before they drew near, heavy 

 clouds had gathered in the course of a few minutes, 



