A FATIGUING JOURNEY. 247 



get up at 5.30. It was fortunate that I did so, as otherwise I should 

 have had no breakfast. Being anxious about my luggage, I went to 

 the railway-station (thermometer still 40 a below zero), and after 

 much difficulty found the baggage-master. He could not understand 

 either my ticket or the map, and expended fully five-and-twenty 

 minutes before I got the checks. Then back to the hotel, packed 

 the travelling-bags, took them down myself, and put them by the 

 door so as to be ready. The train was to start at seven, and break- 

 fast was announced for half-past six. But the breakfast-room was 

 not opened until a quarter to seven, so that there were barely seven 

 minutes for breakfast. Then I had to carry the two bags, &c., and 

 find the train. They do not trouble themselves about platforms 

 here, but the trains stand about anywhere in the road or market- 

 place. There are no porters or railway-servants about, and the only 

 plan is to board every train until you find the right one! This is not 

 pleasant, when you have to climb the steep steps and are impeded 

 by luggage. As far as Chicago, all was plain sailing. There I had 

 to take a carriage across the city, and get upon the Lake Shore line. 

 Now began a series of difficulties. I had been puzzled to know why 

 the fare to Boston was so expensive. To La Crosse from Boston, 

 including drawing-room and sleeping-cars, the fare was twenty- six 

 dollars, i.e., about five guineas. But the fare from La Crosse to 

 Boston was thirty-two dollars, or nearly 6 10s., without drawing- 

 room and sleeping-cars. The latter are 10s. 6d. each, and the former 

 4s. Both are necessary, as the ordinary cars have no accommodation 

 for washing, and the wood fuel covers you with a fine black dust. 

 Neither is there any drinking-water, and the hot and close atmosphere 

 creates incessant thirst. 



Then began the bother of the tickets, my route being a singularly 

 complicated one, involving all kinds of changes. Just before arriving 

 at Buffalo, where the sleeper tickets had to be procured, the con- 

 ductor found that I should have to take a carriage and drive to 

 another station. When we arrived, there were only twenty-five 

 minutes in which to cross Buffalo, take ticket, and catch train. No 

 hope of supper. There wei'e just seven minutes to spare, so I ran 

 across the road to an apparent restaurant. It was a "saloon," 

 where eatables are not sold. However, the mistress very kindly 

 gave me a roll, broke it, and put a slice of ham inside, with which I 

 bolted back again. As it happened, there were oysters and milk in 



