AUTUMN NEEDS 53 



Certain of the biennh/^ notably foxgloves, Can- 

 terbury bells, hollyhocks and Myosotis dissitiflora, 

 it is well to transplant to the beds in which it is 

 proposed to have them bloom the next year, if 

 this has not been done already; likewise summer- 

 sown pansies, violas and dianthus. Move into 

 their permanent places any perennials grown from 

 seed and likely to bloom another year. 



Where there is actual danger of winter-killing, 

 very young biennials and perennials may be car- 

 ried over in a coldframe and bedded out in April 

 or May. This is also a good way to catch up, 

 if planting has been late or growth slow; devel- 

 opment then goes on through the autumn and is 

 resumed early in the spring. Put only a few leaves 

 in the frame; just enough to cover the plants 

 lightly, as if the fall had been natural. Bank 

 earth against the frame and when winter has set 

 in lay a piece of rush matting or some cornstalks 

 on top of the glass. If there are warm days, let in 

 some air and light in the middle of the day when 

 the sun is warmest. 



Planting in autumn has a slight distinction from 

 transplanting, for in the case of purchased plants 

 and bulbs the time is sometimes regulated by trade 

 exigencies. Thus lilies, other than L. candldum, 

 may be transplanted in September and October, 

 but purchased bulbs, especially the imported ones, 

 are slow getting to market. Lily bulbs from Japan 

 are planted in November and even in early De- 

 cember, the ground being kept from freezing by 



