Canoeing in Swift Water 



then tie the end through the ring at the hook-end of 

 the anchor. You then have a kellick so rigged that you 

 can lower it or raise it from your kneeling position near 

 the stern of your canoe, and in case the anchor gets 

 caught under a root or a rock, you can pull yourself up 

 to it with the tail-rope on your anchor, and by the same 

 rope pull the anchor in upside down. 



If you cannot easily obtain a grab or grappling-hook 

 for an anchor or kellick, use an iron ring twelve or fourteen 

 inches in diameter, made out of square iron and weighing 

 twelve or fifteen pounds. Such a ring makes a very 

 satisfactory anchor when used with a long rope, and 

 never necessitates a tail-rope. I have never known one 

 to get fast among the rocks or roots. When a ring is 

 not available, use an oblong stone weighing fifteen or 

 twenty pounds. An ordinary slip-knot will generally 

 hold a properly shaped boulder. A timber hitch, 

 rolling hitch, clove hitch, or even two half-hitches will 

 suffice. I have found that putting a stone in a burlap 

 bag prevents scratching a canoe. 



The best wrinkle for a kellick where a long trip is 

 contemplated with many portages, and where saving in 

 weight of outfit is essential, is a net made of cord-line 

 with about a three-inch mesh and two feet square. 

 When you wish to fish and use an anchor, pick out a 

 smooth boulder, say fifteen pounds in weight, place it 

 in the centre of the net, and use the end of the anchor 

 rope as a gathering line, threading it through the edges 

 of the net. You then have a net bag with a stone in it 

 for a kellick. When you are through fishing, throw 

 away the stone and put the net in your pocket. 



For a pike-pole use straight-grained spruce anywhere 

 from twelve to sixteen feet long, depending on whether 

 you pole from a standing or kneeling position (the latter 

 requiring a shorter pole), or a piece of straight-grained 



157 



