DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF FLOWERS. 127 



Soil and Situation. The situation should be open, but 

 not exposed to currents of air. As to the soil to grow 

 them in, various composts are prescribed by florists. 

 They require a fresh, strong, rich, loamy soil. Hogg re- 

 commends fresh loam, with a considerable portion of rot- 

 ten horse or cow dung. The bed should be dug eighteen 

 inches deep, and filled with the rich compost, a little 

 above the level of the walk ; then lay a stratum of good 

 rich mould, two inches deep, over the compost, on which 

 to plant the roots, as the dung or very rich compost in 

 contact with the roots would prove injurious rather than 

 beneficial. 



Planting. After the bed is thus prepared, and has 

 stood long enough to settle, the frame should be placed 

 upon it. Fall planting is much the best, if the bed can 

 be kept from very severe frost, or if not kept so warm as 

 to start the foliage. Late fall or early spring planting is 

 the best. 



The roots should be planted in rows six inches apart, 

 and the same distance from each other in the rows. A 

 little care is necessary, in planting, to place the roots 

 right-side up. By close examination, the eyes, from 

 which the stems and flowers are to proceed, can be dis- 

 tinguished, which, of course, must be planted uppermost. 

 After the roots are placed on the bed, they must be care- 

 fully covered two inches deep with good sound garden 

 mould. When th'e bed is all completed, the surface should 

 be three or four inches above the walk. They will be in 

 flower in June, and, if shaded from the sun, will continue 

 to display their beauties a long time. 



Taking up the Hoots. "When the foliage begins to turn 

 brown and dry, the roots should be taken up and dried 

 in the shade. When properly dried and kept from mois- 

 ture, they may be kept out of ground two or three years 

 without injury. 



