36G SKETCHES OF PALESTINE. 



the shape of the moon when she is horned. Over against this there 

 was a third hill, naturally lower than Acra, and parted formerly 

 from the other by a broad valley. However, in those times when 

 the Asmoneans reigned, they filled up that valley with earth, and 

 had a mind to join the city to the Temple. They then took off 

 part of the height of Acra, and reduced it to be of less elevation 

 than it was before, that the Temple might be superior to it. Now 

 the Valley of the Cheesemongers, as it was called, and was that 

 which we told you before distinguished the hill of the upper city 

 from that of the lower, extended as far as Siloam ; for that is the 

 name of a fountain which hath sweet water in it, and this in great 

 plenty also. But on the outside these hills are surrounded by deep 

 valleys, and, by reason of the precipices on both sides, are every- 

 where impassable. 



THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. The chureh of the Holy Sepulchre is 

 built partly on the low ground and partly on the ascent. It is not 

 entered from the Via Dolorosa : the traveller has to ascend the next 

 street, and then, turning to the left, to proceed along a winding de- 

 scent, till he arrives at a large open court in front of the church, 

 where he will find everything his heart can wish in the form of 

 crucifixes, carved shells, beads and bracelets, saints, and sherbet ; 

 all exposed to sale, and the venders seated on the ground beside 

 their wares. The court is bounded by the wings of the convent; 

 that on the right contains Mount Calvary, and other supposititious 

 sacred places; that on the left, the Greek chapel, and anciently the 

 belfry. The door of the church faces the court ; it is on the side of 

 the building. It is open only on certain days in the week, and cer- 

 tain hours in each day. To get it opened at any other time, it is 

 necessary to have an order of the two convents, the Latin and the 

 Greek, with the sanction of the governor of the city. When open, 

 the door is always guarded by Turks, who exact a tribute from all 

 who enter. Once admitted, the visiters may remain all night, if 

 they please. The crowd pressing for admittance on certain days 

 is immense ; and the Turks, who keep the door, treat them in the 

 roughest manner, notwithstanding that they pay for admission, 

 squeezing and beating them about like so many cattle. ' It must 

 be allowed,' says Dr. Richardson, 'that they are often extremely 

 riotous, and conduct themselves in a manner very unbecoming their 

 character of pilgrims.' 



* Having passed within these sacred walls, the attention is first 

 directed to a large flat stone in the floor, a little within the door ; it 

 is surrounded by a rail, and several lamps hang suspended over it. 

 The pilgrims approach it on their knees, touch, and kiss it, and, 

 prostrating themselves before it, offer up their prayers in holy ad- 

 oration. This is the stone on which the body of our Lord was 

 washed and anointed, and prepared for the tomb. Turning to the 

 left, and proceeding a little forward, we came into a round space 

 immediately under the dome, surrounded with sixteen large col- 

 umns that support the gallery above. In the centre of this space 



