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POPULAR GARDENING. 



October, 



This being the People^s Paper, it iti open to all their 

 Inquiries bearing on gardening. Correspondents are 

 urged to anticipate the season in presenting questions. To 

 ask,/or instance, on April lb or 20 ivliat Peas had best be 

 sown, could bring 710 answer in the May issue, and none 

 before June, when the answer would be unseasnnable 

 Questions receii'ed before the lOthofany month stand a good 

 chance of being answered m the next paper. Not more than 

 three questions should be sent at one time. Inquiries ap' 

 pearing witht.ut name belong to the name next following. 



Replies to Inquiries are earnestly requested from our 

 readers. In answering such give the number, your 

 locality ajid name, the latter not for publication, unless 

 you desire. Wi^te only on one side of the paper. 



443. Renovating Old Grape-vines. Please advise 

 as to how to do this.— L. H. W.. Luzerne Co., Pa. 



444. Cypripedium Insigne, Will you please tell me 

 how to pot and care for Cypripedlums. Do they re- 

 quire much water in hloonu—K. U. B.., Algona, loiva. 



445. Double White Feverfew. What shall I do with 

 the plants to have them in ^ood condition for bloom 

 next summer? Are the;s' hardy enough to remain out 

 or will they keep better m the cellar?— X. Y. Z. 



446. Grubs in Strawberry Land. I wish to prepare 

 some creek bottom laud badly infested with white 

 grubs this fall for Strawberries. What I wish to know 

 is how to get rid of them? I understand that salt and 

 fall plowing are the remedies. When and how to be 

 applied?— C. L. M.. Ellsicorth, Kan. 



447. Troublesome Grass in Lawn. A strong, coarse 

 grass that enlarges from the root In the form of a bowl, 

 and the tops of which are a brownish color, has in- 

 vaded my two year old seeded lawn, and is destroying 

 its beauty. Cutting out seems an endless task. Would 

 increased fertility he likely to drive it out. The soil is a 

 sandy loam.— J. W. F., Boston, Mass. 



448. Dark Worms in Pots. Some such of a small 

 size are troubling my Begonia at the root. How are 

 they to be gotten rid of?-G. S. P., Fort Randall, Dak. 



449. Managing a Fruit Farm. Through circum- 

 stances beyond my control until too late I became owner 

 and manager of a young fruit plantation representing 

 when in mu'sery trees as furnished by an agent {unre- 

 liable I regret to say) $500 worth of planting stock, and 

 I find myself knowing little about culture, hence in 

 need of advice. The plantation embraces Pears, Plums, 

 Quinces and small fruits. After one season, from lack 

 of close attention it has become quite weedy, but the 

 trees, etc., are looking very well, (a) Had they best 

 be weeded? (b) Shall I put stable manure around my 

 Cun*ants, Quinces and Blackberries, (c) Shall I cut 

 my Pears. Plums and Quinces back any this fall. An- 

 swers would greatly oblige.— G. T., Richland Co., Ohio. 



450. Gladiolus Failing. While my Gandavensis 

 variety flowered well, a dozen Purpurea aurea planted 

 near by did not give a single bloom; some plants rot 

 even when coming up. Can you ascribe a cause.— 

 L. H. J., West Virginia. 



451. Wintering Plants. I have no greenhouse, but 

 have a fairly light, frost proof cellar, and also a small 

 upper room with western exposure, that a hall stove 

 keeps from freezing, while with a lamp I can keep the 

 temperature up to about 50 degrees. I have Geraniums, 

 Fuchsias, Solanums, Abutilons, Tea and Miniature 

 Roses, et«., all in the open ground; also some young 

 Geraniums that have been kept pinched back to pre- 



Eare for winter flowering. The question is how had I 

 est care for the outdoor plants ro merely keep them 

 over, and also would the room described do for the 

 young Geraniums to bloom in? Please advise my 

 ignorance.— Subscriber, ro/ij/f street, Ontario. 



452. Marvel of Peru. I would be glad to receive 

 directions for cultivating this plant and keeping over 

 the roots.— J. G., Washtenaw Co., Mich. 



453. Home Grown Tobacco for Fumigation. I have 

 grown a quantity and desire to know whether it would 

 be of use in ridding a plant house of insects.— M. E., 

 Monroe Co., N. T. 



454. Pear Tree Scale. How can I destroy this pest 

 on my trees. They are smothered with it and do not 

 yield to soft-soap and water.— Anxious. 



455. Flowers in Winter. I have a cool greenhouse 

 with a temperature often as low as 41) degrees, but never 

 to frost. How under such circumstances can I have a 

 few flowers In midwinter. I would like suggestions? 

 -R. G., Bucks Co., Pa. 



456. Effects of Leaf Fall on Fruit. Some of the 

 Pear trees in my garden have shed their leaves, the 

 fruit not being fiilly grown. Will it ripen?— Beginner. 



457. Green Fly in the Rose House. Fmnlgating is 

 objectl<malilc in destroying these, as it gives a smoky 

 odor to the flowers. What can Ix' employed in its stead? 

 — G. R. L., Spri.iofield, III. 



458. Fig Culture North. I would be grateful for 

 light ou the propagation and care of the Fig. How low 

 a degree of cold will they stand without injury? Must 

 they be laid down before frost, or not until we lay 

 Grapes and Blackberries?- A. W., Randalia, loiva. 



459. Protection from Rabbits. Can you inform us 

 of au effective remedy against these in their attacks on 

 trees, Blackl)erry canes, etc.— T. R. V., Muscotah, Kan. 



4(U). Vinegar Eels and "Mother." Can you Inform 

 us how tlie presence of these is to be accounted for in 

 vlncgar?~0. L. C, Wilmington, Del. 



461. Canning Sweet Corn. I would be glad to see 

 the best method for this described, as our own practice 

 has not been successful.— E. G., Hartford, Conn. 



4fi'.>. Cultivating the Currant. I believe tbat Cur- 

 rants could be grown profltably for market iu this 

 place, and would appreciate any points on theirculture 

 that any reader might give— A. tti T., Yjisilanti, Mich. 



453. Plants for Rock Work. We are about starting 

 an outdoor rockery, and apply to you for a list of the 

 best plants.— C. C. R., Wllliamsijort, Pa. 



464. Failure with Lilies. I started out to enlarge 



my collection of this favorite flower considerably a 

 year ago, but have not met with the success aimed for, 

 losing many of the bulbs the past winter. Will you 

 kindly favor me with some hints on their culture out- 

 of-doors; also in pots?— H. A., Lancaster, Pa. 



46.5. Pruning Dwarf Pears. What course do you ad- 

 vise as to pruning these?— C. W., Niagara Falls, N. Y. 



466. Manuring Rhododendrons. Knowing that 

 these as well as the hardy Azaleas are not the most 

 easy plants to manage, I would like advice as to the 

 method of manuring tiiem in open ground. 



467. Pears from Seedling Trees. In how many 

 years may I expect to get fruit from such?— W. A., 

 Xenia, Ohio. 



468. Protecting Shrubs, etc. As the season for cov- 

 ering these is near I apply for directions to cover a 

 variety of shrubs and hardy plants set in the spring.- 

 W. W., Onondaga Co., N. Y. 



469. Cutting Scions, Which is the better time to 

 cut grafts for spring use, fall or winter?— Tyro. 



470. Sweet Peas Failing. I have had no success with 

 this annual early in the season, the buds blighting be- 

 fore they opened. Lately some flowers appeared. How 

 can this be avoided in future?— Laura. 



REPLIES TO INQUIRIES. 



439. Peas for Canning. In this vicinity Peas 

 are often raised for canning establishments. They 

 are considered a profitable crop at one dollar a 

 bushel, which is the price usually contracted for. 

 The producer has to pay twenty-five cents a 

 bushel for picking and deliver them at the estab- 

 lishment. In addition to this he has to assume 

 all the other expenses, .such as purchasing seed, 

 manure, etc., and the labor connected with the 

 proper cultivation of the crop. Land here rents 

 from ol;:ht t' • t+_-n dollars per acre.— Chas E. Par- 



NELL, (JU(.CU-'<, L. I. 



4:J4. Killing Shrubs. Cut or break off the 

 young sprouts while they are young and growing 

 rapidly.— C. E. P. 



434. Wire Worms in Carrots. No remedy can 

 be applied to save the remainder of the crop. In 

 the fall clean off every thing and give the ground 

 a heavy dressing of lime, wood ashes or any con- 

 centrated or commercial fertilizer. Harrow it in 

 thoroughly. This will banish them.— C. E. P. 



428. Budding Query. The inner bark should 

 be cut through to the wood.— C. E. P. 



411. Rosebuds Blasting. Instead of taking up 

 the plant annually, let it remain outside where it 

 is growing, and protect during the winter if nec- 

 essary. With this treatment the buds wiU not 

 blast.-C. E. P. 



412. Clitoria Marianna. This is a perennial 

 and can be propagated by seeds or cuttings.— 

 Chas. E. Parnell, Queem, L. I. 



430. Squashes Failing. They were destroyed 

 by the root borer. The following is an excellent 

 preventive: Dissolve an ounce of saltpetre in a 

 gallon of water, and as soon as the young plants 

 appear above the ground thoroughly saturate 

 the hill with this mixture. Kepeat the operation 

 three or four times at intervals of five or six days. 

 If at any time afterwards the vines show indica- 

 tions of wilting treat as advised for young plants. 



421. Sea Weeds in Compost. The little salt 

 contained in the sea weed wUl prove beneficial 

 rather than injurious, that is, if used in the pro- 

 portion of one-third sea weed and two-tlurds 

 manure. Before applying let it be weU decayed 

 and thoroughly mixed.— C. E. P. 



423. EflFects of Kegrafting. Regi-afting will 

 not change or have any effect or influence on the 

 nature of the Apple.— C. E. P. 



442. Warts on Vine Leaves. This is the result 

 of too much moisture at the roots and a too close 

 moist atmosphere. It is too late to apply any 

 remedy now, but if the di-ainage is imperfect it 

 should* be attended to immediately. Another 

 season reduce the supply of moisture inside and 

 give air more freely. C'. E. P. 



432. Propagating Clematis. Amateurs can 

 readily increase their stock by layering the half 

 ripened wood. When the wood is in a proper 

 condition place the shoots in any convenient 

 situation, cut them partially through on the 

 upper part and then open a shallow trench and 

 fasten the shouts therein with a short ]ieg, cover 

 or fill up the trench with eartli and place a flat 

 stone over the layer to prevent the soil from dry- 

 ing out. C'over all slightly w^ith evergreen 

 bi-anches during the winter and the next spring 

 take up and replant. C. E. P. 



426. Hardy Catalpa for Timber. This tree is 

 proWng profitable for timber culture in many 

 places West, and we see no reason why it should 

 not do so in Northern Ohio. Its chief value lies 

 in its use for posts, railroad ties, etc., for which 

 purposes it is claimed to possess very enduring 



Dualities. We would, however, suggest that the 

 uture of forestry demands that other specimens 

 of trees be grown as well as the Catalpa, a kind 

 that is altogether being planted very extensively. 



431. Currants Losing their Leaves, I think 

 that their leaves became infested with the red 

 spider in such numbers as t^i cause them to drop. 

 My bushes often do the same. Still it does not 

 appear to injure them in the least. C. E. P. 



436. Vinegar from Cider. The chief points in 

 the process of "Vinegar making from cider as 

 furnished by a very successful manufacturer are 

 as follows: Cider exposed to the air soon meets 

 with two changes, namely, the operation of the 

 yeast principle causing the first fermentation, by 

 which a little starch is converted into sugar, and 

 almost simultaneously the stronger \'inous fer- 

 mentation and by which the sugar is converted 

 into alcohol, and the soUd matter is precipitated 

 into the bottom or is thrown off from the surface 

 when the cask is full and the bung is open. At 

 this stage it will in a low temperature rest for a 

 month or more, but with a rise of heat the third 

 fermentation begins, by which the alcohol is con- 

 verted into acetic acid the sour principle in vine- 

 gar. This change depends for its rapidity upon ex- 

 posure to the atmosphere, as it is accomplished by 

 the absorption of oxygen from the atmosphere, 

 and is also greatly promoted by the addition of 

 such substances which have alreadj' passed into 

 the acetious state as vinegar itself, or by racking 

 off into old casks that are thoroughly impregnated 

 with acetic acid. Dei>ending upon atmospheric 

 exposure, as this change does, it will be much 

 more rapid if the barrel is kept but half full than 

 if entii-ely full. If, in addition, this amount is 

 stirred \igorously with a stick daily the change 

 will be yet more nastened. By causing it to fall 

 drop by drop to a barrel below, or (for speed) 

 better still, increasing the exposure, to have it 

 filter through shavings or sawdust (Oak or Beach 

 are recommended, but any kind that will not 

 communicate taste will answer), the change is 

 hastened to the highest practical degree. These 

 latter methods are much employed in vinegar 

 factories, but cannot be said to make the best 

 quality of vinegar, as such can be distinguished 

 by a peculiar stinging taste. The very best vine- 

 gar of good '■'"body" and aroma requires more 

 age and the slower processes. The acid fermenta- 

 tion is much more rapid also in a warm than a 

 cold temperature. The only value of the slimy 

 substance called " mother " is found in the acetic 

 acid which it may contain, but this had better be 

 provided in some other way; the makers of the 

 best ^^.negar carefully remove it from the casks. 

 Where on a small scale such equipments as have 

 been referred to cannc>t be well provided, the 

 best that can be done is to rack off the cider when 

 the second or \'inous fermentation is ended, half 

 fill the casks, keep them iu a wai'm place, stir 

 them often, and when good vinegar is produced 

 be sure that some be retained for use in hastening 

 the manufacture of the next crop. 



441. Fenstemons from Seed. In raising these 

 plants from seed, the most satisfactory results 

 are obtained by sowing in pans and placing them 

 in a frame, as the seed can then be placed under 

 the conditions most favorable to its germination, 

 and the seedlings be carefully nursed. Fill the 

 pans with a mixture of loam, leaf mold and 

 sand, and sow the seed thinly. When of a suit- 

 able size prick off into boxes filled with good soil, 

 and in these allow them to remain until the 

 spring, when they should be planted in the posi- 

 tions in which they are to remain. If more con- 

 venient you may put the seedlings singly in three- 

 inch pots. The seed pans should have a glass laid 

 over them and the frame be shaded with mats or 

 canvas until the seedUngs are strong enough to 

 bear the exposure. A. H. E. 



452. Marvel of Peru. It is easily raised from 

 seed in the spring on a hot-bed, or in a greenhouse 

 along with Balsams, Egg Plants, and simUar 

 things. The roots can be grown in pots the first 

 year and left in them all winter if kept almost 

 dry and safe fronf frost, or outside plants can be 

 lifted and stored like Dahlias. The roots can be 

 planted out in spring in the open ground, but it 

 js safer to start them in growth first. The soil 

 should be deep, friable, and well manured, and 

 the situation sheltered, and the hottest that can 

 be found for them. This plant offered in various 

 colors is misleading. The name of " marvel " is 

 given because it produces flowers of many colors 

 in succession, the intermediate flowers being 

 striped with two svicceeding coloi-s, for instance, 

 when a plant is changing the color of its flowers 

 from crimson to yellow the first flower which 

 shows any yellow will generally be crimson, with 

 a few yellow lines and dots; each succeeding 

 flower vnl\ show more yellow until they come 

 yellow entirely, after which another color wiH 

 immediately begin to appear in dots and lines as 

 before. The number of intermeiiiate flowers 

 between the selfs varies greatly— four is the 

 smallest number I remember noticing. The 

 roots become very large by the end of the second 

 year, and being brittle ai"c difficult to store, and 

 had best be thrown away, starting young plants 

 again from seed. 



410. Chrysanthemums Shooting Up. It is best 

 to remove the shoots as soon as they are noticed, 

 until the flowers are all expanded, then they can 

 be permitted to remain.— C. E. P. 



375. Small Fruits South. In your answer to 

 this query you leave out, to my mind and experi- 

 ence, the most profitable Strawberry for a warm 

 climate. Whether for home use or shipping, and 

 I have tried a great many varieties, there is none 

 that equals the Jumbo, a stout, hai-dy, vigorous 



f)lant, free from rust, good vine, a fair size, de- 

 icious flavor. Dr.V. S. MacNider, Jach.-^otu N. C. 



