1887. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



41 



456. Effect of Leaf Fall on Fruit. If the 



leaves of your Pear trees ha^e fallen after the 

 fruit has become two-thirds jrrown it is likely that 

 they will raature.although they will lie wantini? in 

 flavor. If the fruit has not attained two-thirds 

 of its growth it will prove to be worthless.— ("has. 

 E. Parnell. 



443. Benovatine Old Vines. Unless the vines 

 have made a strong growth this season it is of 

 little use to attempt to renovate them, and I 

 think that your best course will be to remove 

 them and plant anew in the spring. If the old 

 vines have been improperly cared for and are 

 making strong growth they can be considerably 

 bencfltcfl by giving a good dres.sing of well de- 

 cayed manure this fall and working it well in 

 around the roots in the spring. In the spring also 

 prune and strip off all loose bark. Tie up before 

 the buds begin to swell.— C. E. P. 



444. Cypripedinm insigne. This can be grown 

 in a warm, moist situation, where a temperature 

 of 5.5 to 60 degrees can be maintained. The plants 

 should be fully exposed to the light. During the 

 plant's season of growth they should be given a 

 liberal supply of water at their roots, and as they 

 require but little rest it will not do to allow them 

 to become too dry. They should be grown in 

 porous or soft baked pots, and these should be 

 well drained. If the pots are two-thirds flUed 

 with drainage it is none too much. In placing 

 drainage in the pots, place the larger pieces in 

 fli-st, gradually filling up with smaller and finish- 

 ing with a layer of moss. They do best in a com- 

 post composed of two parts rough fibrous peat, 

 one part of sphagnum moss, and one part sharp 

 sand, all well chopped up and mixed. In potting 

 keep the plant* well elevated and in the center 

 of the pot. Pot firm; keep the plant when in 

 bloom in a cool airy situation, and the flowers 

 will remain in pei-fection for a long time.— C. E. P. 



Vyt. Pear Tree Scale. Dissolve two pounds of 

 potash in two gallons of water, and apply to all 

 the stems, branches and trunk of the tree by 

 means of a paint brush. One or two applications 

 will destroy all. This can be applied at any time 

 when the foliage is off the trees.- C. E. P. 



.W. Harris lily Query. Harris Lily is an 

 evergreen or rather continuous-growing form of 

 the Trumpet Lily (L. longiflonim), but submits 

 to the same sort of treatment that we accord to 

 the Trumpet Lily, namely, to be rested in fall or 

 winter and started into growth in spring. Yes, 

 lay the pots on their sides in the cellar so that the 

 bulbs may have a good long rest, but observe that 

 the earth in the pots does not get hard frozen nor 

 dust dry. Start them in spring according to the 

 time when you wish them to bloom, allowing, un- 

 der favorable circumstances, some ten weeks 

 from the time the young shoots appear tilll ili » >m- 

 ingtime. If you started them now thc'\ would 

 take longer to" come into bloom. As oiit-ol-dnor 

 Lilies I never have found any difference |}etween 

 the Harris and the common Trumpet Lily as re- 

 gards hardiness; none of the race is extra hardy, 

 but with a gni>d mulching over their roots they 

 should surviNc iirettj- hard winters. But as they 

 have a tendency to pioiiuce bulbs all along their 

 stems underground, you had better lift and re- 

 plant all your Tiiimpet Lilies every two or three 

 years in order to keep the bulbs away from near 

 the surface of the ground, hence beyond the in- 

 jurious influences of frost.— W. F.iLCONER. 



493. Chrysanthemam Leaves Failing. The 

 Chrysanthemums were put into the house too 

 early. The fli-st week in October, as a rule, is 

 quite soon enough, and the following directions 

 should have been observed in housing them:— 1st. 

 The house should have been thoroughly cleansed 

 of all dirt, leaves etc., that may have accumulated 

 during the summer, and if not painted, a very 

 good plan to adopt is to well wa.sh all glass and 

 woodwork with some cleansing substance. 2d. 

 The plants should not be housed on a wet day, or 

 when the foliage is wet with rain or dew. If you 

 do you are sure to have mildew appear. M. If 

 mildew does appear, slightly dust with flowers 

 of sulphur. I should therefore advise L. E. C. to 

 pull off a few of the lower leaves from his plants, 

 then slightly dust them with flowers of sulphur. 

 If the house is heated with pipes, a very little of 

 the flowers ot sulphur can be put on the pipes 

 and a Are lighted, and every light thrown open 

 at the same time; this will soon dry up all damp- 

 ness.— A. H. E. 



478. Keeping Vegetables. Those intended for 

 table use through the \rinter should be so cared 

 for that they will not shrivel, but retain even 

 freshness. Turnips.Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, and 

 the like, may be covered with sand and kept 

 fresh. Many vegetables are nearly ruined by be- 

 ing stored in cellars heated by a furnace. This 

 should never be allowed. It is better never to 

 store such things in a cellar under a house, but 

 in a cool place, either under the barn, or else- 

 where convenient to the bouse. The cooler they 

 are kept, the better, if they do not freeze. 



447. Troublesome Grass in Lawn. Early in 

 spring rake and roll thoroughly, then apply a 

 heavy dressing of Henderson's lawn fertilizer. 

 Avoid short cutting; mow frequently but allow 

 the grass to remain as long as possible. A dress- 

 ing of well decayed stable manure could be ap- 

 pUed this fall with benefit.— C. E. Paknell. 



491. Tuberous Begonia Culture. The culture 

 of Tuberous Begonias does not present any diffl- 

 culty to any one having a fair knowledge of or- 

 dinary plants. Their season is now over. During 

 winter the tubei's may be stored under the stage 

 of the greenhouse. Lay the pots on their sides 

 to prevent drip from above saturating the soil. 

 During the early spring months they ought to be 

 watered, and as so* in as it is seen that some growth 

 has been made, shake out the tubers and pot 

 them in any good soil, such as is frequently rec- 

 ommended for Pelargoniums, Chinese Primulas, 

 Cinerarias, etc.,— good loam four or five parts, 

 decayed stable-manure one luirt, Icaf-mnld one 

 part, and some rough sand added to it. A ci-lc- 

 iirated Begonia grower showed nic the potting- 

 soil his firm use for their prize Begonias some 

 time since, and it was very similar material to 

 that which I have described. Do not give the 

 plants very much water in the early stages of 

 their growth, but as the pots become filled with 

 roots they require a liberal supply. Place the 

 plants near the glass where they have a free ad- 

 mission of air without being exposed to cold 

 draughts. They are really indoor plants, requir- 

 ing corresponding treatment, but they may be 

 started in a forcing house early in the year to 

 give early bloom. — A. H. H. 



506. Everbearing Strawberry. We know of 

 no " Everbearing " Strawberry that yields even 

 a f au- second crop, and that agent is a fraud. Let 

 him alone.— A. M. P. 



427. Keeping Grape Seed, etc. (a) Put Grape 

 seed in dry sand till ready to sow. ib) We pre- 

 fer planting Raspberries in fall and banking over 

 them with earth, and drawing this away in early 

 spring by running over with harrow.— A. M. P. 



481. Wax Plant Management. The Wax Flower 

 (Hoya carnnsa) requires plenty of heat and moist- 

 ure during the flowering season, but in winter 

 should be kept coo] and with only moisture 

 enough to preserve its thick fleshy leaves in a 

 fresh state. It will not stand frost, but need not 

 have a winter heat higher than 45 degrees at 

 night, or from ,50 to 00 in daytime. It is subject 

 to mealy bug and aiihis, and when they appear 

 they should be washed off with warm soa()-suds 

 and" a brush, drenching the plant afterwards with 

 clear water. In summer this plant delights in the 

 strongest heat, and plenty of sunshine. Treated 

 thus the second season it will give bloom, and 

 annually. It is usually trained to a trellis, though 

 we have seen most handsome plants tied to a 

 stake and massed back and forth thereon and 

 tied together. There are several species, one 

 with variegated leaves, but the deep green variety 

 is undoubtedly the best.— A. H. E. 



484. Caring for and Planting Bulbs. The 



bulbs and tubei's .von name should be taken uj) 

 after the first keen frost, and after ha\ing the 

 top removed dry them thoroughly in the shade. 

 Gladiolus and Oxalis should then be stored in 

 paper bags in a dry jilaee where no frost comes. 

 Danlias may be better keptin a cold cellar suited 

 to keeping Potatoes. Caladium and ('anna mots 

 do best for being stored in dry sand in any cool 

 place where it does not freeze. Concerning the 

 planting of Tulips, etc., see article in September 

 issue.— A. H. E. 



.501. Cedar from Seed. The Red Cedar (Jhiujj- 

 eTusCauadcnsU), to which we think you refer, can 

 be propagated from seed, but the hard and bon.v 

 shell of which you speak must be softened by 

 some chemical apiilication, or the seed will sel- 

 dom germinate until the second year, even when 

 exposed to frost or keiit constantly moist. A. S. 

 Fuller in his new work on propagation has this 

 to say of treating them: " The usual method is to 

 gather the seed in the fall when fully ripe, and 

 either mix with strong, moist wood ashes, or 

 pour some strong potash water over them, leav- 

 ing them to soak and soften two or three days; 

 then nilj the bcn-ics, using a httle sharp sand, 

 until the niitcr oat is removed. Wash out the 

 sand and shells, and sow immediately in a bed in 

 the open air, covering about half an inch deep. 

 Mulch for the winter with light material, and 

 this should be removed in the following spring. 

 If then the plants appear, protect them from the 

 direct rays of the sun, but if they fail to come up 

 return tlie mulch and wait another year. Most 

 of the Junipers, including the Hed Cedar, may 

 be propagated by cuttings of the young .shoots 

 planted in sand under gUiss, or of mature wood 

 taken off in the fall and set in cold frames, to be 

 slightly protected in winter. 



473. Foreign Grape Culture. The following 

 on this subject is from a former article that ap- 

 peared in this journal : The best of all cold-house 

 Grapes for common culture is the famous Black 

 Hamburg variety. It has large shouldered or 

 branching bunches and large, sweet, rich berries. 

 Where twenty vines are to be set, at least a dozen 

 should be of this sort. Of other fine varieties for 

 the amateur we recommend the following: liUich 

 or j)i<rp(«— Lady Downes, Muscat Hamburg, 

 Trentham Black; ro/ -Grizzly Frnntignan, Hed 



Chasselas; white— Bow I Muscat, Early Au- 



vergne, Frontignan, Cioldcn Hauiliiug, Royal 

 Muscadine or Chasselas de Foutaiubleau, White 

 Frontignan. The only work on this subject 

 which we find advertised is Chorlton's Grape- 



growers' Guide, and with this wc have no acquain- 

 tance. It can be ordered through this office at 

 its advertised price of seventy-five cents. 



480. Boot-Pruning Fruit Trees. This is an 

 operation whii-h is sometimes ad\isable, with the 

 view of making barren trees fruitful; but it aji- 

 l»lies only to trees that do not fruit well in con- 

 sequence (^f their luxuriant growth and not to 

 trees unfruitful from starvation. Many expedi- 

 ents have been adopted to cause young trees to 

 fruit earlier, the most common being to graft 

 them upon weaker-growing stocks. The Pear 

 grafted on the ()uince is a familiar illustration; 

 li\' tliis means growth is checked and flowering 

 hastened. Fruit trees in soil which hiis been 

 highly enriched, such as in a vegetable garden or 

 rich old lucadiiw, will often grow to large size, 

 and yet not produce fruit. When in this condi- 

 tion "anything that will check their growth with- 

 out injuringthem otherwise will throwthem into 

 flower and fruit, and inupcr root-pruning will 

 effect this. The most favoi-alilc time is about 

 October. By digging *iut a 1 rcncli encircling the 

 tree at a distiince four feet from the stem of a 

 tree, say twenty feet in lieigtit. with jiroporiion- 

 ate spread of branches, and cutting through at 

 least all the strongest roots, it will check the 

 wood gTOwth, and "cause inanv fruit buds to be 

 formed.— A. H. E. 



477. Salt and Fresh Water Influences on Fruit. 

 This matter recently came up before a meeting 

 of fruit growers in Boston, Massachusetts, where 

 the following \iews were advanced: In regard 

 to the salt water being a cause of splendid fruit, 

 one speaker had seen as handsome fruit as ever 

 grew from a tree in Michigan, very near fresh 

 water. He did think once that salt water was 

 the cause of such good fruit in ea.stern Mas.sa- 

 chusetts, and perhaps it is so. (5n the .shores of 

 Lake Michigan he had found the fruit handsome 

 and splendid to eat. Pears grew within two or 

 three miles of the lake at Grand River and Kal- 

 amazoo. So it was not salt water that helped 

 them, but it may have been water. They would 

 not grow four or five miles from the water of the 

 lake. The trees split up after they have grown 

 a little while, and it is very cold away from the 

 water. The handsomest Peach orchard he ever 

 saw in his life was on the shores of Lake Mich- 

 igan in the vicinity of (iiaiid Haven. They were 

 like weeds, and instead of looking scabby they 

 were smooth way up high for eight or ten feet. 

 Another member said he easil.v understood why 

 the air is not cold near the ocean. Where he 

 lived, close to the shore, it is not as cold as it is 

 five miles inland by five degrees. The ocean is 

 always open and is never below the freezing 

 point. But I do not understand why it is not as 

 cold on the shores of Lake Michigan as it is a few 

 miles inland, when it Is all frozen over. 



4S7. Propagating Cxrapes, Shrubs, etc.. Out-of-Doors. 

 The whole subject of outtiuor propagation by euttiiiRs 

 is so well covered iu a recent article by Prof. .1. L. 

 Build In the Farmers' Review that we quote it here 

 nearly In full: We will note briefty the mauage- 

 ment of the mature cuttlDKs of the young wood of 

 a few trees, shrubs aud vines, iucludlug the Currant, 

 Gooseberry, Willow, most of the Poplars, Mock Orange, 

 Tree Honeysuckle, some of the Spiraeas, and Elder- 

 berry. These may be prepared and planted as soon as 

 the leaves are mature. Make the cuttings about eight 

 inches In length, catting quite close to a bud at the 

 lower end, but an inch or so above the bud at the top, 

 stick iu rows In well prepared ground, with the top 

 bud about even with, or slightly below the earth sur- 

 face. Prior to the advent of cold weather, cover with 

 hay. straw or leaves, to prevent Injury from freezing 

 ami heaving. In the spring dean off the mulching 

 and rake the line before the liuds start. The young 

 wood of the Grape. Mulberry, AVIliI Olive. Buffalo Berry. 

 Bo.x Alder, Populus bolle:ina. Populus alba. Populus 

 argentea, Smoke Tree, Welgella. Spirtea nobleaua. 

 Spiriea Douglasl. 8pira?a oiipullf'ilea, taniarixamuren- 

 sls, etc., is prepared for rooting by placing In the cal- 

 luslng pit late In autunm. Prepare a.s above noted and 

 tie with willows Into hiiiidlesof from alto 7r,, the buts 

 evened. Make a pit on dr\ ground, M inches deep, into 

 which place the bundles closely together with the bases 

 upward, and evened up by crowding earth un<ler the 

 shorter bundles. Cover with four Inches of mellow 

 earth, and over all forest leaves or flue straw, to nin Inly 

 keep out frost. In the sjirlng. clear off the niiUch and 

 rake the surface of the reinalning earth. If rains be 

 not frequent water liberally. Continue this until tin- 

 base of the cuttings show callus and commence to root. 

 Then carry to the field In water. .Stick In mellow sub- 

 soiled rows at an angle of about 4.^ degrees. The secret 

 of success Is in planting when the roots begin to pus?" 

 If any roots break off thecallused base will emit others 

 before the top buds start. 



.'"jOTt. Cape Bulb Culture. For pot culture the bulbs 

 of these, In eomnnm with all bulbous plants which 

 flower in the spring, should become well established 

 aforetime through early potting. The proper treat- 

 ment Is to shake out alt the old soil In September, and 

 put about eight good bulbs in a 4jK5-ineh pot, giving 

 good drainage, and using good free sandy soil. Pot 

 firmly, and water sufflch'iitl.v to moisten the compost 

 through. Then If you have no frame, stand the pots In 

 some sheltered place, pidtlng a piece of tile or some- 

 thing over the pot to keep the soil from being drenched 

 with rain, at the same time not allowing it to become 

 (julte dry. About the ndddle of Xovember put them 

 In the window of a room where fire is seldom made, as 

 they cannot bear warmth, and It does not matter about 

 frost getting at them, they being quite hardy. Air 

 them freely, especially In spring, never in any way 

 coddling them, and they" will make strong growth and 

 bloom weU. We find Freeiilas do well in a compost of 

 good fibrous loam, peat and leaf-mold. In about equal 

 proportions, enriched with a little dry cow manure. 



