i888. 



POPULAR GARDENING, 



85 



534. Twig Blight. We have ^ven your fjviery 

 this heading, for the difficulty is undoubtedly 

 twig blight. It is a form of disability that luu* 

 received much careful !*tudy. It is not yet 

 definitely known whether the fun^i, ulwaj's 

 found accompanying the disease, is the cause or 

 .in accompaniment of the difficulty. No medica- 

 tion of thf* tiers has yet proved effectual in ward- 

 ing ciff <ir in (■nnn;r tlic disease. The trouble lies 

 in the sap, hence niedieatinn seems to be vmable 

 to reach the <liffieulty. Iteasonalile siieeess has 

 followed the cutting hack of theattected |MU-tions 

 of the limbs at the first indieatinn of blight, con- 

 siderably l)elow the diseoluratinn, and burning 

 the several portions. If left, the whole sap of 

 the tree sometimes soon becomes vitiated. 



535. Draining the Orchard. The only consistent 

 course is to di*ain ]>re\ious to iilanting, and as 

 draining can be done earlier than the ground 

 would be fit to plant, we would advise that it be 

 got at \'ery early in the spnng. It is a pity this 

 important work was not performed in the recent 

 fall months. Generally spealring it may be said 

 that while some varieties of fruit t rees are better 

 adapted to moist soils than others, tlicrc are none 

 which will not do better in a moist hollow when 

 it is tile drained. 



52H. Wormy Apples. I don't understand how 

 an Apple that is wormy and unsound can he 

 "otherwise good." However I will gladly give 

 my own experience in preventing insect attacks, 

 and am sure if "G. C." will follow it up thoroughly 

 he will have no further trouble. The insect is 

 undoubtedly the codling moth (Carpocapsa pom- 

 itneUa), to kill which effectually the work must 

 be begun as soon as the blossoms fall off, for the 

 moth lays her eggs in the blossom end of the 

 Apple about that time, and the tiny insects soon 

 hatch, and unless destroyed at once eat their 

 way into the Apple; after which no remedy will 

 reach them. The only poison which will meet 

 the case is some arsenical preparation (Paris 

 Green or London Purple), and this must be ap- 

 plied thoroughly in a fine mist like-spray. The 

 first application should be made with blossom 

 falling and again in about three or four weeks. 

 In a bad season for insect* it should be ai>plied a 

 third time. Other things favoring this will en- 

 sure you a good crop of Apples. The apparatus 

 used in my work was the " Little Giant " Atom- 

 izer, manufactured by A. H. Nixon, of Dayton, 

 Ohio, and I can warmly recommend this machine 

 t^ all orchai'dists. I used about one pound of 

 London Purple to 60 gallons of water, and think 

 one pound to 75 gallons would be strong enough. 

 In every case which has come under my observa- 

 tion where this treatment was followed out the 

 result was more than satisfactory.— J. O. A., 

 Montgotncry Co., Ohio. 



.548. Peach Culture: Shortening in The 

 " Shortening in " process is being largely prac- 

 ticed in Peach growing sections, making trees 

 more stocky and better. Our rule is to cut back 

 one-half to two-thirds of the past season's growth 

 in early spring following, and if limbs or branches 

 are too thick thin them out by cutting back close 

 to body or large limbs of trees. In conversation 

 with many Virginia and North Carolina growers 

 all advocate growing all kinds of fruit trees, es- 

 pecially Apples with short bodies and low heads, 

 as it prevents sun scald to the bodies. Yours is a 

 sample of a large number of similar letters. Ex- 

 amine well the locality where you expect to lo- 

 cate, and inform youi-self as to success of this 

 and that kind of fruit in that locality. Hill tops 

 and western slopes are, as a rule, safer in that 

 section than valleys or eastern slopes.— A. M. P. 



.565. Works on Grapes and Other Fruits. Ful- 

 ler's Grape Culturist (price §1.50) and Hussraan's 

 American Grape-Growing and Wine-Making 

 (price $1..50), are the leading standard works (jn 

 the subject. Both are good. The lattcu- is the 

 work of a man of the widest expeiience perhaj»s. 

 The best treatise on fruit culture for your part 

 of the country is found in White's Gardening for 

 the South (price S2.(X)), a book treating also on 

 vegetable gardening. 



50n. Sweet Potato Culture. The Sweet Potato 

 requires a rich, light, warm soil, and in this 

 vicinity is generally planted about the first of 

 Jxine in rows or ridges four feet apart, the plants 

 being one foot apart in the row. Or the j* can be 

 planted in hills four feet apart, placing three 

 plants in a hill. After growth commences all the 

 cultivation that they require will consist in keep- 

 ing them well cultivated. And the vines should 

 be moved occasionally in oi*der to prevent them 

 rooting at the joints. The sprouts or slips as the 

 plants are termed can be usually procured at any 

 principal seed store, or if they are wanted in 

 quantity one can readily raise them at home, by 

 starting the tubersin a hot-bed aliout the middle 

 of April. In order to start the tubers place 

 them in shallow boxes, tliiekly together on two 

 or three inches of sand, and cover as soon as 

 they show indications of starting. The slips or 

 sprouts should be carefully broken as soon as 

 they are four our five inches in length, and if 

 well rooted and the weather is suitable planted 

 out, or else they can be i>lanted in rows an inch 

 apart in similar boxes filled with turfv loam and 

 sand in equal pai-ts until wanted. The tubers 

 and slips will require the treatment usually in- 



quired by hot-bed plants. A few tubers will pro- 

 duce a (piantity of plants. The Nansemond is a 

 very reliable variety.— Chas. E. Parnell. 



5ix'. Pears for Market. IJartlett, Beurre An- 

 jou, Howell. Mount Vernon, Seckel, Sheldon, 

 I^awrence, Kieffer, Belle Lu<rati\'e, Ueurre Bosc, 

 Louise Bonne de Jersey and Duclicsse de Angou- 

 leme, the latter to be grown as a dwarf.— C. E. P. 



5U. Forcing Bulbs Early. Hyacinths, Tulips 

 and all other bulbs intended for early blooming 

 should be potted as early in September as possi- 

 ble, and then treated precisely as those intended 

 for later bloom until fire is started in the houses, 

 when they should be brought inside and placed 

 undei'neath the stage until indications of advanc- 

 ing growth are noticed, when they should l>e re- 

 moved to a liglit situati<»n (or else placed as close 

 to the gliiss as possible) where an average tem- 

 perature of 45 is maintained. Water freely and 

 give air whenever the opportunity offers. For 

 this purpose the early blooming varieties of Hy- 

 acinths, Tulips, etc., should be used.—C.E. P. 



515. Grubs in Cyclamens. This is a pest to 

 which these beautiful pets are becoming very 

 subject. Your best coui-se would have been to 

 have washed the corms or tubers perfectly clean 

 before planting them out in the border for the 

 summer, and then repeat the opreation before 

 potting them in the fall. This would have ban- 

 ished them for the season. They should also have 

 been gi\en clejm pots and drainage, as well as 

 jK'rfectly clean compf»st.— C E. P. 



516. Cyclamen Treatment. In order to secure 

 a succession of bloom for a long period, the stock 

 should be divided into several portions. That 

 intended for the earliest bloom should be given 

 a temperature of .55 degrees from the time fire is 

 started until all the flowers are expanded. The 

 remainder of the stock should be kept as cool as 

 possible, and from them a succession of plants 

 may be introduced into heat from time to time 

 as necessity or occasion may require. Cj^clamens 

 flower best when given a light sunny situation, 

 and a temperature of from 50 to 55 degrees. 

 Don't crowd the plants, and do not let them suffer 

 for water at any time while gi-owing.— (?. E. P. 



511. Double Glazing. After many repeated 

 trials this has been abandoned as being very un- 

 satisfactory. Not only do the two thicknesses of 

 glass retard the light and prevent the rapid 

 melting of frost and snow, but the dust and dirt 

 that will eventually gather between the glass of- 

 fers a serious objection to sun and light at a 

 period when every ray of light is needed,— C. E.P. 



5:i0. Colored Plates of Fruit. You can pro- 

 cui-e these at a very reasonable rate of the 

 Stecher Lithographing Co., Rochester. N. Y. 



522. Easpberry, Crimson Beauty. I cannot 

 say as to its value as a market variety, but for 

 amateur cultivation at home it is a very de- 

 sirable variety. — C. E. P. 



523. Raspberries for Canada. Yes, they 

 should stand if protected by being laid down, 

 and covered with eaith. Don't cover too early; 

 uncover gradimlly in the Spring.— C. E. P. 



■524. Sources of Vegetable Seed. Asparagus 

 is mostly grown in New Jersey and Long Island. 

 Beets in New York, Pennsylvania and Connecti- 

 cut. Bush Beans and Peas in Canada and New 

 York State on the immediate like of Lake On- 

 tario. Pole Beans in Connecticut, New Jersey 

 and Pennsylvania. Cabbage in Long Island, 

 Pennsylvania and New Jersey. Cauliflower hjis 

 always been imported, but recent experiments 

 show that it can be successfully grown on Long 

 Island. Olery in New York, New Jereey and 

 Pennsyhania. Cucumbers in Connecticut, New 

 Jersey and Michigan. Carrots in New York, Mass- 

 achusetts and Connecticut. Egg Plant in New 

 Jersey and Pennsylvania. Leek and Lettuce in 

 New York, Michigan and (.>)nnecticut. Melons 

 in New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Onions in 

 Connecticut, Massachusetts, Michigan, Pennsyl- 

 vania and New Jersey. Pai-snip in New York 

 and Connecticut. Turnip in Pennsylvania, Con- 

 necticut and Jlichigan. Tomato arid Pepper in 

 New Jersey, Michigan and Connecticut. 



.528. TTse of Pine Spines. They are of no value 

 to mix with leaves for compost, and I would not 

 advise any one to use them for mulching. They 

 should be raked off the grass, and if you have a 

 low spot in the hog pen or cow yard, where 

 water stands, till it up with them; and aUow 

 them to remain until thoroughly rotted. Don't 

 bvn-n them off on the grass.— C. E. P. 



r)3f». Rhubarb Culture. The cultivation of this vege- 

 tahle Is of the simplest kind. It prefers a deep sandy 

 loam, and if it c-an be given a sheltered situation the 

 t-rop will be nmch earlier, and consequently more 

 profitable. The ground should be plowed as early In 

 the spring as possible to a depth of ten or twelve Inches, 

 harrowed thoroughly, and then marked out in rows 

 four feet apart each wav. At eaeli lutersection fliree or 

 four sbovelsful of well decaved manure Is plaeed and 

 well niixeil with tlie soil, ana here the i>Iant Is placed. 

 After planting they must be welleultivat««lat all times. 

 After thf frost hasdestroyed the follaKeeach hill should 

 be given three or four shovelsful of well decayed ma 

 nure. Tlil-^ treatment sliould be given yearly until the 

 plants bcionie exhausted or too large, when a new 

 nlimtatlon should he made. Propagation Is elTeete<I 

 hy di visoa of the old root-s. each eye or bud when broken 

 apart wltli a root attached forming a plant.— C. E. P. 



540. Nitrate of Soda on Early Truck. As a rule, 

 the best way to use Nitrate of Soda is to sow It hand 

 cast at the rate of six bushels per acre, <»r 500 lbs., over 

 the whole surface of the land. An average handful of 

 Nitrate of Soda weighs 4 02s. There are 2M0 handfuls in 

 a bushel of 70 lbs. In sowing, every time the right foot 

 strikes the ground you scatter n handful of 4 oz. If the 

 breadth of land covered Is 3 vaids and vou step 2 feet 

 you will sow 450 lbs. piT uere. Stei-itiiik' 1>^ feet, you 

 will sow fM> lbs. per acre. SteiPi)liik' I foot you will sow 

 WIJ lbs. per acre. The breadth of laud covered Is easily 

 regulated hy the angle at which the Nitrate loaves the 

 hand. A gardener had better use Sulphate? of Potash 

 than Kainlte, and he will usually find more benefit 

 from Super iihosphate than either. The better way Is 

 t<t buy a SUMir-plmsiihate containing :! or 4 per cent of 

 Potash, ami 10 (ir Vi per cent of soluble Phosphoric 

 Acid. Sow :i()Oor 400 lbs. of Soda Superphosphate and 

 Sint lbs. of Nitrate of Soda per acre over the whole gar- 

 den In the .Spring as soon as the frost Is out of the soil. 

 — .TosEt'H Harris 



S-t:!. Croton Oarrieri. We cannot Ilnd any trace of 

 such a specle.s or variety among new or old garden 

 plants, nor among '* botanical " ones. But among 

 tropical and subtropical plants we have many Incon- 

 spicuous ones unknown to us.— 



558. Pine Needles as winter covering. Excellent. 

 Put them In about two Inches deep.— W. F. 



542. Black Walnut Culture. The Black Walnut 

 grows finely on any reasonably gravel soli, but best on 

 a rich, deep, moist soil; at the base of a hlU Is a good 

 place. For timber alone the young trees one or two 

 years old should be planted In straight rows 4 feet apart 

 each way, on deeply prepared ground, cultivated 

 thoroughly the past three or four years, and then in 2 

 or .S years gradually thin them out to H. 12, Ifi. and at 

 last to 2i> feet apart, and then eventually to 2(> by ;J0 feet 

 apart; for nuts and tlnibcr ronibined thev inay lie 

 planted S feet apart in rows JO feet apart. This tree Is 

 a very mucli faster grower tlian it is generally con- 

 sidered to be, if planted on good rich soil, and thor- 

 oughly cultivated while young. Its wood varies In 

 color and t(UaHty on different soils. The better the soil, 

 and growth the better the wood and color.— D. B. W. 



547. Arbor Vitee Hedge. The American Arbor 

 Vit<ie is the one generally used for hedges. The Siberi- 

 an Is a more dense, compact, warpish grower, but 

 plants of It come much higher. The American should 

 be planted in the center of a deeply prepared row 3 or 

 4 feet wide, enriched with old well rotted manure if the 

 soil Is poor. The plants should be such as have been 

 transplanted 2 or more times, and niav he planted 12 to 

 20 inches apart In the row and of a size of 10 to 40 or 

 more inches in height. For inmiediate elfect thev may 

 be 40 to 60 inches in height. The larger the plants the 

 greater the cost per tree; 10 to '^1 Inches in height is the 

 usual size. They should be well cultivated for 2 or 3 

 years, and then they may be sheared once or twice a 

 year into any shane. Hemlock is rather the better tree 

 for the puriiose.— D. B. W. 



5(17. Dissolving Bones for making Fertilizers. See 

 a chapter ou this subject in "Talks on Maniu-es." Super- 

 phosphate is now so extensively made and Is sold at 

 such reasonable prices that it does not pav a farmer or 

 gardener to make It himself. Better sell the bones and 

 buy Superphosphate and Nitrate of Soda: or If there Is 

 no market for them set out some Grapes or Asparagus 

 and bury th% bones a foot or eight Inches deep In the 

 ground below and as wide as your time and patience 

 will permit.— J'>sKi-u Hakrls. 



549. Green Manuring for Fruit. Yes, If the soil is 

 good enough to grow a fairly heavy crop of Rye, Buck- 

 wheat, Red Clover, or Peas. These should be plowed 

 under when in their strongest growth, just when the 

 seed is in the milk. If the land is not rich enough to 

 produce a good heavy crop of these, it should be 

 manured until It will. The next spring after the green 

 crop Is turned umler it should !)»• idowed verv deeply 

 and the fruit plants idanti-d. These should be thorough- 

 ly cultivated until middle of .Tuly. then Buckwheat 

 sown thickly among them, then that turned under, and 

 so year after year until the desired fertility is obtained. 

 This is (he practice of our best orchardlsts.- D. B. W. 



5*iO. Pears that will Ripen well on Trees. We 

 think there are no varieties of Pears that will ripen up 

 so finely on the tree as they will gathered at the right 

 time and ripened up rightly In the house. Some varie- 

 ties that never ripen fit for use on the tree are among 

 the ver>" finest when house rlpeiierl. Especially Is this 

 true of most summer am] rarlv :iiitinnii \arietirs; such, 

 to ripen them t^> their liik'h.st .luaiity. shnul.i he gath- 

 ered as soon as fully grtiwn and well colored but before 

 any are mellow. Theu if you wish to ripen rpileklv and 

 finely spread them a few Inches deep on a betl comfor 

 ter, say. and cover them with another in a warm mom. 

 If slowly In a cool rooni, or they may be placed In 

 drawers, or In any situation, that is dark, where they 

 will ripen oulckly or slowly as the degree of heat; heat 

 ripens, cold retards.— D. B. W. 



566. Applying Ashes. Practically, you are perfect- 

 ly safe in applying ashes to the land at any time. If 

 the ashes set free any of the ammonia or other gases, 

 the soil will hold it.— .Toski'h HAurtrs, 



.517. Euphorbia Jacquinsflora Culture. This can be 

 propagated from cuttings of the half ripened wood In 

 April and May. They should be potted off into three 

 inch pots as soon as rooted, and shifted on from time 

 to time as they require It during the summer months. 

 From June to September they should be plunged In a 

 sunny situation where they can be given careful atten- 

 tion as to watering, and pinching back the leading 

 shoots so as to obtain bushv specimens. It Is also ad- 

 visable to turn the pots jit times to pn-vent them from 

 rooting through Into the u'loimd. Almul tlii> middle 

 of September the\ should be taken n|.. -hlltc-d if neces- 

 sary, brought luslde and placvl where thev are fully 

 exposed to the sun lu a temperature <»f not less than 

 60 degrees at any time. WTien the plants are coming 

 Into bloom liquid manure can be given at times to &(l- 

 vantage. After blooming nlvc a period of rest, and as 

 soon as growth again eomniences, turn them out of 

 their nots and rer><>t, placing them in as small pots as 

 possible, and when the.se are well filled with roots 

 shift, and treat precisely as in the previous .season. 

 This Euphorbia dislikes to be over potted, and the pots 

 must be thoroughly drained. It prefers a compost com- 

 jjosed of twothirds turfy loam, (me-third well decayed 

 manure,wlth a sprinkling of sharp sand.— C. E. P. 



