i888. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



95 



hoe Is necessary, and when the Plums begin 

 to fall the ground should be entirely free 

 from weeds, and raked smooth in order that 

 the Plums may be readily picked up and 

 destroyed. This I find the most inexpensive 

 and effective remedy. All will not be de- 

 stroyed, but enough to secure the crop of 

 any fruitful variety. 



We plant Plum trees 8 feet apart each 

 way. In order that the trees may be laid 

 down and protected, first plow a deep fur- 

 row and spread the roots two ways, that is 

 each side of the tree, then trim the limbs 

 fan shaped. Then by removing a shovelful 

 of dirt the tree may be bent down and pinned 

 flat to the ground in the fall, a thing neces- 

 sary here, as the thermometer goes down to 

 40 every winter, and last somewhat lower. 

 We have no Plum, Pear or Cherry that will 

 stand uninjured through these winters, as 

 the snow comes on early; those trees that 

 are laid down are soon covered with snow, 

 which is all the protection they need. I 

 think this would be a benefit even without 

 snow, as it is warmest near the ground. 



We graft the Plum on one year old seed- 

 lings, but where it isnecessary to transplant 

 these 1 should not advise grafting until the 

 next spring, as otherwise the shoots will be 

 weak and crooked unless on very rich 

 ground. All the native and European Plums 

 do well on Canada Plum stocks as far as we 

 have tried. We whip graft, using a scion of 

 two buds, and the grafts often made a 

 growth of from four to six feet. We have 

 not been able to bud on the Canada but 

 have made 9.5 per cent grow when grafted. 



I have never seen a Plum tree proof against 

 black knot. I will not attempt to say what 

 it is, but have reasons for believing that it 

 is brought on by acid manures, sawdust, 

 chip dirt, rotten wood and often is increased 

 on poor, dry, sandy, also wet, soggy and 

 putty-like soil. A well stirred, warm, mel- 

 low soil with abundance of ashes, bones and 

 a supply of manure and salt will practically 

 banish it. One peck of hardwood ashes, 

 one pint of salt and a handful of lime ap- 

 plied three or four times a year is very good; 

 when black knot appears cut it out with all 

 the curly wood, if it takes half the limb; it 

 will soon heal if given the above treatment. 



Notes From an Ohio Vineyard. 



MATTHEW CRAWFORD, CUTAHOOA FALLS, O. 



The first Grape to ripen was the Jessica, 

 which was in good eating condition at the 

 middle of August and fully ripe at the first 

 of September. It originated in Canada and 

 has proved hardy thus far. It is a good 

 grower, making an abundance of firm, short- 

 jointed wood. There was a little mildew on 

 young vines, but no rot has yet appeared. 

 It is a very prolific bearer and seems to be 

 able to carry a large crop to maturity and 

 ripen its wood at the same time. The bunch 

 and berry are only medium in size, being 

 Uttle larger than the Delaware. It may 

 remain on the vines a long time without 

 dropping from the stem, or wilting. The 

 quality is very good; indeed, almost equal 

 to the Delaware, and without a trace of 

 foxiness. One person thought that it was 

 almost too sweet. Chas. Carpenter says it is 

 the best white Grape he ever tasted. I think 

 it is the best white variety for home use yet 

 introduced. Not large enough for market. 



The Early Victor ripened very soon after 

 the Jessica. It is from Kansas and is a 

 rampant grower, healthy, hardy and prolific. 

 The bunch and berry are of medium size 

 and very attractive in appearance. The 

 quality continues to improve for some time 

 after the fruit turns black, until it may be 

 classed as one of the best black Grapes. Its 

 season is short. If left on the vine long 

 after maturity it shrivels badly. 



Potter's Early is one of the Concord class, 

 but ia sweeter than that variety ever becomes. 



It originated at Providence, R. I. , and is a 

 great favorite in that locality. It is little 

 known elsewhere. I planted three large 

 vines when it was first introduced, and they 

 have made a luxuriant growth, and fruited 

 three times. In wood and foliage it resem- 

 bles tlie Concord, but the leaves are more 

 russety and turn yellow much earlier. It is 

 very early, but may remain on the .vine a 

 long time without dropping or wilting. The 

 berry is of the size and color of the Concord, 

 but the bunch is a little smaller. It is per- 

 haps the sweetest of all Grapes and has a 

 very little foxiness. 



The W'orden may be classed as an improved 

 Concord, but a week earlier. Its leaves turn 

 yellow some time before those of the Concord, 

 and it is less liable to rot. Too much can 

 hardly be said in its favor. 



The Lady is one of the most valuable of 

 the white Grapes and perfectly hardy. The 

 cluster is of medium to large size, with large 

 berries crowded together quite closely. The 

 skin is thin, and sometimes cracks in a wet 

 time. It has a great quantity of sweet, rich 

 juice of which bees and wasps are very fond. 

 While it is not as good as the Jessica, it is 

 better than the Pocklington or the Niagara, 

 about which we have heard so much. It is 

 quite early, and in ordinary seasons may be 

 left on the vine long after maturity. 



Pocklington is another of the Concord 

 class, healthy and reliable. I am not aware 

 that it has been winter killed anywhere. It 

 has large clusters and its yellowish color 

 makes it quite attractive in the market. 

 The quality is almost as good as that of the 

 Concord, with a little more foxiness. 



The Niagara is much like it, but its clus- 

 ters are rather larger, and it is hardly as 

 foxy. It is a favorite in the market, and 

 usually brings a good price. It has not 

 fruited with me, but I have seen it in perfec- 

 tion, and think well of it for market. 



Two vines of the Empire State fruited 

 with me this season. They were unpruned 

 and unprotected last winter, and some of 

 the buds seemed to have been weakened in 

 conseqiience. They received no summer 

 pruning this season, and as a number of 

 strong canes have grown from near the 

 ground, the fruit was retarded somewhat in 

 ripening. The clusters were of medium 

 size and the flavor very good. 



Six vines of the Woodruff Red fruited for 

 me this season for the first time. For vigor- 

 ous growth, hardiness and splendid foliage 

 this variety is not surpassed. The fruit was 

 never claimed to be very good, and I was ex- 

 pecting it to be inferior. For this reason I 

 made no use of last year's wood. Hereafter 

 every bud shall be saved. It is quite early 

 in ripening, and is so large and beautiful 

 that everyone wanted to taste it. No one 

 found fault with the quality, but very many 

 spoke of it in the highest terms. It is the 

 brightest red of any Grape I have seen. 

 None of the clusters were very large, though 

 of fair size. The flavor is very sweet and 

 rich, with a little foxiness that nearly every 

 person relishes. It has quite a large, hard 

 center that never becomes tender. Perhaps 

 it would have done so if it had more time. 

 This is its main defect. Its attractive ap- 

 pearance will cause it to sell readily, and its 

 flavor will please nearly all who taste it. Its 

 habits of growth and productiveness will 

 make it a very safe variety to plant for 

 either home use or market. 



The Isabella has been so completely super- 

 seded by the Concord that many are unac- 

 quainted with it. It is when well ripened 

 of better quality than any of the Concord 

 class. The vine is an excellent grower and 

 bearer, and it is one of the best keeping 

 varieties we have. It is jet black and has a 

 bloom resembling lampblack. Its stems 

 never become woody, and when perfectly 

 ripe they are so tender that they are easily 



broken, and one feels like carrying the clus- 

 ter in his hand rather than tru.sting the stem. 

 If allowed to overbear it fails to ripen both 

 fruit and wood. I have known a vine to 

 produce over 3,(KI0 pounds in a single season, 

 and most of them were of good quality and 

 well ripened. It occupied several trees, was 

 never pruned except with the scythe when 

 the shoots hung in the way. This is the way 

 for inexperienced persons to treat any 

 variety. Vines seem to need brush to climb 

 on. I have a couple of Isabella vines that I 

 care for because the fruit is a favorite with 

 so numy.— Ohio Farmer. 



Growing Strawberries for Large 

 Yields. 



MR. J. B. ROa£R.S BEFORE THE MICHIOAN HORTICULTC- 

 RAL .SOCIETY. 



This subject divides itself into two classes. 

 F; ret— A great yield, having less reference 

 to the large size of the Individual berry; 

 and, .S'fco?!^— Seeking large size in the indi- 

 vidual berry, with less yield in the aggregate. 

 The culture will necessarily have to be 

 treated separately in the first stages. 



First class: Select plants for setting that 

 have never been forced to their greatest 

 yield; of a variety possessing strong, natural 

 vigor, inclining to form numerous fruit 

 crowns, and capable of withstanding high 

 feeding. Set as early in the spring as the 

 soil is in fit condition, five feet between rows, 

 three feet in the row. Allow the plants to 

 make matted beds. Late in the faU, and 

 just before applying mulch between the 

 rows, remove all feeble plants, as well as 

 those set in the spring to form the bed; then 

 thin those remaining to allow room for the 

 developingof the plant and fruit next spring. 



Second class: Select runners from plants 

 that have never been forced to their full 

 fruiting capacity, of a variety having strong, 

 natural vigor, and capable of withstanding 

 high feeding. 



Time of Setting: This varies with the 

 variety. All that is requisite is sufficient 

 length of time to elapse before the severity 

 of the weather causes plant growth to cease 

 for the development of one or two good, 

 vigorous fruit crowns. Allow any runners 

 starting to make root, and late in the fall, 

 just before applying the mulch between the 

 rows, remove all but the plants first set. 

 Set plants two feet between rows, and eight 

 to ten inches between plants in the row. 

 The culture of this class is in single stools, 

 not cuttmg runners; rather removing all 

 runners taking root in the late fall. The 

 remainder of my remarks will apply to the 

 culture in general. 



PREPARATION' OF THE GROUND.— Select 



land capable of being finely pulverized, 

 moist, not wet. inclining to be heavy— that 

 is, such as vrill become firm about the roots. 

 Special care should be taken to have an 

 abundance of plant food well mixed with 

 the soil. Well rotted caw manure, at least 

 one year old, is one of the best forms of 

 plant food. Spread on the surface of the 

 land at the rate of one ton, or 2.5 bushels to 

 each 12 feet square of surface, this being at 

 the rate of 75 cords of manure to the acre. 

 This may seem to some almost wasteful, yet 

 the demand of the fruit upon the food in the 

 soil must be met. 



^Miatever manner is employed should be 

 of such a nature as to make a slow, vigorous 

 plant growth to perfect the best possible 

 fruit crowns, not only for fruiting the next 

 spring, but also to withstand the rigor of 

 the winter. For early spring setting, prepare 

 the soil the fall before, to allow time for the 

 plant food to become incorporated in the 

 soil. For later set plants, prepare early in 

 the spring, and raise a crop of Peas on the 

 ground, then prepare for setting plants. 



Cultivation.— As soon after setting plants 

 as the new leaves begin to grow in the crown 



