i888. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



271 



raamitatture, it rots and the oider uudeigous 

 fermentation. Now in the case of using rotten 

 Apples, whicli bciiin- lllled with these orffanisms 

 that have already iiidiu ed deeay in fruit, it is 

 folly to grind them vip with sound fruit ami 

 expect th(^ product to remain sweet. These 

 spores excluded in the rotten fruit, we find it 

 easier to control the dormant spores that are in 

 the cider. The racks and cloths, if sour, contain 

 the.se acti\c spores, and hence the necessity of 

 steam or hoiling wat^'r to desti'ny them, keeping 

 the utensils entii-ely sweet aiui pure. 



Fermenting spores apparently are much more 

 numerous during those days descrihed lus " mug- 

 gy"— close or sultry. (In such days as Ihese 

 cider will ferment sometimes liefoi-e it leaves the 

 press, ('lear days, therefore, together with cool 

 temiieratnre, are best for successful cider mak- 

 ing. Hence we shoulil plant varieties of fiuit 

 that can be made into cid(>r late in autumn or 

 early winter; eider made in winter keeps sweet 

 iK'tter than that made in oarl.v autiuun. 



Keeping Cider Sweet. The best and only 

 method of preventing fermentation in early- 

 made cider is by beating to 17.')° Fahr., and plac- 

 ing in an air-tight jiaekage and sealing up while 

 hot, following the usual method (»f canning fruit. 

 Cider put up by this process I ha\e kept through 

 the second summer, as sweet as when it ran from 

 the press. The objection to this method is that 

 it changes to some extent the flavor of the cider, 

 and when opened for use it ferments .iust as 

 does canned fruit. A method of preserving late 

 made cider is to add S(tmc antiseptic, adverti.sed 

 iu the cider journals, which has as its active 

 ingredient either sulphur or salicylic acid, the 

 latter lieing the most used. One ounce of the 

 acid to thirty -two gallons of cider being the rule, 

 the quantity being so small as not to be detected, 

 and not injuring it for vinegar making. 



Vinegar Making. <^ne after another method 

 was laid aside as useless or ine.xpedient and I have 

 gone back to barrel manufacture, but have 

 decreased the length of time over the old process 

 in a very simple manner. The cider for vinegar 

 made and barreled, the barrels are elevated intt) 

 an upper story, and on the approach of winter 

 one third of the contents of each barrel is 

 removed and placed in other casks, leaving the 

 barrels two thirds full. Then 1 leave the barrels 

 and allow the frost to do its work, with no dan- 

 ger of bursting, as there is room for expansion. 



In the spring, when thawed out, the barrels 

 are rolled over in order that the contents may 

 again be intermingled, and then allowed to stand. 

 By May or June, almost every barrel so treated 

 is excellent vinegar, while if they had been 

 placed in the cellar over winter, many barrels 

 would not become vinegar within two years. 

 Do not, however, leave vinegar already made 

 exposed trO the frost. One object in having the 

 vinegar in an upper story is to escape that pest 

 of the vinegar-maker, the barrel worm. 



• Market Gardening. 



I U. E. Dodge, of Fredonia, before the Chautauqua Co. 

 Horticultural Society.] 



Near all villages and towns there is a 

 demand for garden products which is seldom 

 fully supplied. To supply the market daily 

 with good vegetables and fruits with profit, 

 requires considerable knowledge of kinds 

 and culture. Of course in a short essay, I 

 cannot give iu detail all the modus operandi 

 of this branch of horticulture, though I 

 have had a working experience of over a 

 fiuarter of a century in it. But I will 

 endeavor to give some practical rules and 

 principles to govern the gardener. 



Location- The most favorable location for the 

 garden is a gradual inclination towards the east, 

 southeast or south, that it may have the morning 

 sun to warm and (juieken the young germs into 

 growth, and insure early maturity. 



A northwestern aspect, although cold and late, 

 is less liable to injury from late anil early frosts, 

 as vegetation here is sheltereil somewhat from 

 the rising sun, and does not suffer so much if 

 slightly frozen. The frost does not injure so much 

 as the heat of the sun on the frozen parts. 



Cabbage,Cauliflower,Spinach,Lettuce and most 

 of the salads, are more easilj- brought to perfec- 

 tion in a northern exposure. The soil, tf)0, is 

 often richer and will retain fertility longer, other 

 things l)eing eipial. 



When the ilrainage is good, the level is not 

 undesirable and may have some advantages 



absent from a rolling surface, but whatever the 

 aspect or surface, the soil to be smooth and level. 

 Care nuist 1k' taken that the productiveness of 

 the garden be not ilimiuished by large trees and 

 shndis, wliii^h are injurious liy their shadi', drip 

 and absorption of moisture. Shrubs and briars 

 also iiresi'utan untidy appearance, give protec- 

 tion to vermin and form a reservoir in which is 

 stored all sorts (d' wccmI stH'd. 



Water in the Garden. If streams cannot be 

 made available the surplus wat<'r from thcM'avcs 

 of the adjacent buildings may be saved In ivser- 

 voir.'i. Many garden c^rops arc often of inferior 

 iiuality for want of watering. Kspecially so are 

 Lettuce and Cabbage, being often hard and 

 stringy. Turnips and Hadishes not swelling, 

 Oni<ms drying olV and decaying, Caulitlowers 

 wilting, making feeble growth; in dry sciusons 

 also the garden becomes more Infested with 

 insects. Newly transplanted vegetables need 

 watering, but this must be dime with judgment. 

 Hen Fitted for the Bnsiness, The business of 

 market gardening is u laborious one, and no one 

 shouhl engage in this branch of industry who is 

 luiaccustomcd to manual labor, who is not con- 

 stantly observing and prompt to do whatever 

 the needs of his business require. 



Fencing. The objects in fencing are: A feel- 

 ing of .sec\irity, that no intruder may destroy the 

 fruits of our labor; to jirotect plants from <«ild 

 winds and shade those that require it. A close 

 board fence is sufHcient, but a brick or stone 

 wall is preferable on account of durability. 

 Hedges are objectionable where land is \aliuible. 

 Not only that they occupy an undue proportion 

 of the surface and thereby le.ssi'U the products on 

 a given area, but they also give protection to 

 mice and in.sects that virey upon the crops. 



Soils. The character of the soil is of as much 

 importance as situation and aspect. In selecting 

 grounds for the market garden it is of the utmost 

 imiiortance that the soil should be mellow and 

 capable of being easily worked. The best soils 

 are of a pliable, loamy character, with porous 

 subsoil, the poorest a light sand or stiff clay. 



Almost any soil can be brought up to a good 

 state by adding the proper maiuires. If not 

 naturally deep it should be made so by subsoil- 

 ing as deep soils retain a greater supply of moist- 

 ure in dry weather. Neither do they become so 

 wet in rainy seasons, as the earth retains the rain; 

 and if equally fertile furnish plants with a more 

 abundant sujiply of food than shallow soils. A 

 dark color, other things being equal, should have 

 the preference, as such absorbs heat more readily 

 and in larger proportions than those of a lighter 

 hue,and with no perceptible difference in fertility, 

 vegetables mature several days sooner on the 

 dark. Soils not naturally fertile are not easily 

 brought up to the proper standard, for it is 

 difficult to mechanically prepare unproductive 

 soil so as to produce remunerative crops. 



Form of a Garden. When it is a matter of 

 choice, a square or parallelogram extending 

 from east to west gives a long south fence for 

 shading in the hot summer, and a sheltered border 

 for forwarding early crops in spring. For large 

 market gardens an oblong square shape has the 

 advantage of giving longer rows with less injury 

 to crops by often turning the horse. Straight 

 pandlel rows are the pride of good gardeners. 



Cultivation. If the soil is porous the air enters 

 more readily, deiiosits more liberal quantities of 

 fertilizing gases, which are in the atmosphere 

 ready to be yielded to the soil under favf>rable 

 conditions. Poor ground, deeply cultivated, 

 freijuently yields better crops than rich with 

 shallow tillage, and when land has once been 

 thoroughly tilled in this manner it is easy to keep 

 it properly cidtivated. Increasing the depth of 

 garden soil to all intents increases the size. 



Size of the Garden, A small garden, well man- 

 aged and jiroperly cultivated, a good location 

 and selected varieties will yield more profit than 

 one poorly cared for, many times its size. In the 

 old way, where everything had to be done by 

 hand, two or three acres was considered a large 

 area for one nuin to cultivate, but at the present 

 time with the aids that the progressive gardener 

 brings into requisition, four times that area luay 

 be successfully cai'ed for. 



Improvement of Soil. A clay soil may be ren- 

 dered more porous by under-draining, subsoil 

 l)lowing, the a|iplication of sand, unferment<-d 

 nuunircs, turner's shaving, sawilust, ashes or 

 lime. A wet soil is always cold; lus the same 

 quantity of heat that will warm dry earth four 

 degrees will warm water but one. Frequent 

 working of the soil is always very benelleial to 

 retentive soils. A light sandy soil requires veg- 



etable matter, which may be supplied by plowing 

 under such crops as Clover, Hye, lluckwheatand 

 others of like character. Stiff clay spread over 

 the surface several inidies deep in autumn and 

 left lor winter frosts to pulverize, and this 

 thoroughly mixed with the surface soil the fol- 

 h)wing spring, acts very beneficially. Muck, 

 carbonaceous sid)st«nces of all kiniLs, vcgctidile 

 manures, lime or a.shes, each seems to have the 

 property of rendering heavy soils lighter; light 

 soils more tenacious and both more pnuluetive. 



livery cultivator of experience concedes the 

 importance of drainage. It deepens the soil, 

 lengthens the season for labor and vegetation, 

 and promotes the absorption of fertilizers. 



Using Manures. The garden should have 

 ample drives for the transportation of fertilizi-r.s, 

 gathering crops, etc. No gardener will let the 

 opportunity pass to increa.se the size of the 

 maiuirc heap, for no matter how favorable the 

 .soil, he who tails to make annual liberal applica- 

 tions of nutrua-e gets no crops, such as are seen 

 in the market gardens of our large cities, whc're 

 from lifty to two hundred loailsof stable manure 

 are aiiplied to the acre. 



Horse manure is the best, bulk for bulk of all 

 stable numure. In the compost heap is containiil 

 all the elements, gathered from various sources 

 of vegetable growth, if proipcrly managed. Car- 

 bonaceous material is obtained from theilieay 

 of vegetable matter such as leaves, wood, fruits, 

 straws, et<;., cidlectcd into msusses, which rapidly 

 undergo fermentation and are soon in proper 

 condition for \thu\t food. 



Nosubstance is so well adapted to composting 

 with the different maiuires and night soil as dry 

 muck. It deodorizes the substances, retains all 

 their valuable elements and renders them more 

 available for plant growth. 



(To 6c Continued.) 



Culture of Roses in Pots. 



[Mr. D.aHmour, before Wnlkley Horticultural Society, 

 Sheffield, England.] 



Procure tine open-ground iilaiits early in 

 the autumn and pot them as soon as possible. 



Potting. At the first potting place the plants 

 into as small pots as the plants will allow, luither 

 err on the side of too much drainage than too 

 little. A compost like the following should be 

 used: One part old sods or good turfy loam, 

 half part of old manure, one-eighth part of leaf 

 mould, one-eighth charcoal or sand, well mixed 

 together. The soil must be well rammed. Any 

 old thick roots should be cut back, butall fibrous 

 roots preserved. Some of the plants may make 

 so much growth as to be necessary to re-pot them 

 during the first season. In such case place them 

 into pots the next size larger, faking care not to 

 break the young roots. As a rule one re-potting 

 a year should be sufficient. 



Place the plants in a cold house, giving little if 

 any heat the first year, being allowed to com- 

 mence growth at their own time. If the plants 

 are plunged they require very little attention as 

 to watering. When the buds begin to swell prune 

 the plants back to strong eyes and syringe in dry 

 weather. After blooming, about the end of .lune, 

 they can be put out of doors in a sunny situation. 



Kipening. When they have grown good shoots 

 stop further growth by letting the roots become 

 gi-adually dry, not, however, to the extent of 

 being dust dry; for this also they need not bo 

 plunged. For .securing extra large plants the 

 growth would need to continue by keeping 

 plunged and the roots moist. Still for early 

 spring blooming the ripening must be attended 

 to in good time, not later probably than August. 

 The longer the plants remain outside the better, 

 as the cold nights, dews anil sunshine help to rijieii 

 the wood and produce buds for fine blooms. 



Before hard weather sets in, the plants should 

 be given the shelter of a frame, coming into heat 

 whenever desirable, after l)eing thoroughly 

 ripened and may be fiowered successfully. Hy 

 heat is meant the ordinary temperature of a 

 greenhouse. When brought In they may be 

 pruned, and not Ije given more water than is 

 really required until the buds and leaves begin 

 to form. At this time the top .soil should be 

 taken off and replaced with fresh. 



After the plants hav e bloomed all that require 

 it should be carefully re-potted, plunged outside 

 as before, keeping the leaves moist to enable the 

 roots U> gel a start in the new soil. 



Pruning. To this rule I adhere. " The more 

 you remove from a Kose tree, the finer the bliMims 

 will be'" With H. P.'s I advise that all the 

 branches be cut back to, at must, three eyes, and 



