1 888. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



277 



t<3f). Burnt on Sweet Corn. Siuiit is a fungus; 

 the spores or seeds must hi; i>resent to produce 

 it, and as no remedies are effectual after It gets 

 into the corn all efforts must be directed toward 

 destroying the germs. These may be on the 

 seeds which arc planted, and in that case can be 

 destroyed by dipj^ing the seed corn into a solution 

 of sulphate of copper, which is made by dissolv- 

 ing three pounds of sulphate in five quarts of 

 water, and immersing trie com for I! minutes, 

 or until it is all wet; if left in lonff. some of the 

 corn would likely t(i have its germmating power 

 destroyed. It has been found, howe\ er, that if 

 smutty corn or fodder is fed to animals, it does 

 not prevent the germination of the spores, but 

 they remain in the manure, and if this is used on 

 the corn, application to the ye*'d will be of little 

 use, and great care must be taken to destroy all 

 that appears on the corn a-s soon as it is seen, 

 and not allow an.v to go to the barn or remain on 

 the surface of the ground. It may be burned, 

 but there is some danger in this ca.se that part 

 of the germs float off in the air, and it has been 

 suggested that burying deeply would be a safer. 



858. Weeds, Most weeds can be nearl y eradi- 

 cated by not allowing any to go to seed for 

 several yeai-s, but Purslane seems to be an ex- 

 ception, and all the pulling out and carrying off 

 that can be done seems to produce no effect 

 upon it, either, because the immense number of 

 seeds produced, remain in the ground for years 

 ready to spring into life at e\'ery stirring, or 

 because it seeds when so ver.v small that enough 

 of these little plants grow under something else 

 unnoticed, to stock the land and consequently all 

 our efforts must be directed towards destroying 

 all the plants each year; if the surface is thor- 

 oughly scarified wituin two or three days after 

 every rain, few will grow. It is so succulent 

 that those which do acquire any size cannot 

 readily be killed even if wholly on top of the 

 ground, and so should be carried off; it makes the 

 best of food for cows, swine, or fowl.— W. F. B. 



8.57. Grapes, In default of bags made for the 

 purpose, two pound Manilla paper bags can 

 generally be obtained from country store keep- 

 ers.and answer the pu rpose very well,orif it is con- 

 venient to procure Manilla paper they are easily 

 made. Nothing but the best Manilla is suitable 

 as rain would soon destroy ordinary brown 

 paper. Muslin is also sometimes used (common 

 cotten cloth,) and as a very cheap grade is good 

 enough, it is not very expensive; with sewing 

 machine they can be macle up rapidly, and by 

 making a hem around the toj> to pass a string 

 througli, they can be rapidly, placed over the 

 clusters, and the strings drawn up and tied.— 

 Wm. F. Bassett. 



876. Tomato Blight, I have on two occasions 

 had experience with Tomato vines dying. Once 

 it was the result of a too free application, in the 

 hill, of a manure containing a large percentage 

 ofijotash; most of the plants made a good start 

 but afterwards wilted, turned rusty looking, and 

 Anally died. The other occasion was when I had 

 them planted on a piece of ground imperfectly 

 drained and too much water applied; this I think 

 is the trouble with L. F. Cti's plants. Where irri- 

 gation is used on Tomatoes, the ground should be 

 thoroughly drained or the result will invariably 

 b(' the destruction of the roots, rusty leaves and 

 death. Several experiments in growing Cabbage 

 and Tomatoes in soil saturated with stagnant 

 water have resulted every time in the leaves 

 turning rusty and finally dying. Lessen the 

 amount of water and watch the result, but do 

 not with(jld the water all at once, or else the 

 sudden check will have a similar result on the 

 roots of this plant.— M. M. 



890. Nutmeg Melons Dying. The small worms 

 at the root of the plants are the cause of their 

 dying: they are also the cause of the beetle 

 which attacks tiie leaves. A weak solution of 

 Paris green will destroy them, make it well with 

 the water, and apply with a sprinkling can. 

 Kerosene emulsion is also good but more difficult 

 to make. The Paris green can l)e safely applied 

 before any fruit ujipears at which the time the 

 worms are at work.— M. Milton. 



mi. Celery Blight. There is a difference of 

 opinion in regard to the cause of Celery blight, 

 most growers claiming it as the result of severe 

 drought or heavy rain. I believe it is caused, as 

 described in the commissioner's of agriculture 

 report for 1886., by a fungus of the Celery leaf 

 blight, (Cercmpora Apli, Fricx) which belongs to 

 a genus of over 330 species, which attack the 

 living leaves of plants, and do serious injury to 

 our cultivated crops. What induces me to be- 

 lieve that it is not caused by the accident of flood 

 or drought, is that on our muck soil which be- 

 comes neither very dry or too wet, we have 

 more or less blight each year. As a preventive 

 a shelter of cloth over the plants is said to have 

 preserved them comparatively free from blight 

 in localities where plants not so shaded were 

 badly disesised. A solution of i)cnta scilphuret of 

 potassium or liver of sulphur, ont- ar two ounces 

 to a gallon of water, sprayed upon the jtlants at 

 the first appearance of the blight may arrest its 

 progress. This preparation is at least worth a 

 trial, prowling the grower is satisfied the 

 blight is caused by the fungus. A great help is 



to cultivate', irrigate, etc., it needed, and sujiply 

 some (|uick acting fertilizer. The object tuning 

 to have the plants make a new growth, and that 

 as rapidly as possible. If the olaiits are not too 

 tar gone or late In the season tluy will outgrow 

 it. I have seen (!elery so bad that nothing was 

 left but the heart and which outgrew it, and 

 made fair Celery.— J. II. Bochovk. 



87S. Hollyhock Changing Color. As a rule 

 those phuits that produce plain or self colored 

 flowei'sdo not change their color. Plants that 

 proiUice mottled or blotched flowers often vary 

 considerable, some seasons one color jiredomlna- 

 ting more than the other, but a plant that pro- 

 duces purple culoriil flowers one season will not 

 product" whiti' the iie.vt.— C. E. P. 



flSl. Trees Dying. If these trees have been 

 planted for several years and have become well 

 established,! cannot say what caused the trouble 

 or suggast any remedy. But if they were set out 

 this Spring, they must have been improperly 

 planted or cared for atsome time; again they may 

 have been carelessly dug, packed or laiil in or else 

 injured in transit, aseither of the.se causes would 

 lead to a similar result.— C. E. P. 



879. Fertilizers for Shade Trees. The very 

 best fertilizer you could apply, would be thor- 

 oughly rotted stable manure applied so as to 

 cover the surface underneath the trees to a 

 depth of three inches and forked in lightly. If 

 you must use commercial or chemical fertilizei-s 

 you cannot procure anything much better than 

 bone dust or blood and bone fertilizer, this can 

 be applied at the rate of one pound to every 

 scpiare yard, and forked in hghtly. Peruvian 

 Guano can also be used in the same manner, but 

 before it is applied should be thoroughly pulver- 

 ized, and mixed with three times its bulk of 

 good garden soil. I do not think that you can 

 apply anything in the liquid form that would 

 produce any satisfactory results. It will not be 

 absolutely necessary to fork in the manures, but 

 if this is not done they should be more liberally 

 applied.— Chas. E. Parnell. 



85.5. Black Ants in Lawn. I had a hUl six feet 

 long and two feet wide in the lawn; I opened the 

 nest and poured in two quarts of Kerosene, and 

 it drove them entirely away.— J. B. Waitk. 



822. Climbers. Periploca Qneca grows rapidly 

 and vigorously in any of our light soils, and has 

 some points of peculiar excellence, especially the 

 very dark green of its foliage, and, although its 

 flowers are not very large or brilliant in color, 

 they are very abundantly produced being ijuite 

 curious and distinct from any other climber, 

 having the thick fleshy texture, and something 

 of the rich brown color of Pipsissiwa or Princes 

 Pine (Cliiiniipliila umbeUata.) It is very easily 

 increased by layei's. 



848. Baspberries Dying. I think that it is a 

 bUght of some description that may prove to be 

 very troublesome at some future time, and so 

 advise you to destroy all Infected plants as soon 

 as iiossible.— C. E. P. 



849. Manuring Baspberries, I prefer to 

 apply well rotted stable manure in the fall, and 

 to work it in around the plants as early in the 

 spring as possible. Concentrated or commercial 

 fertilizers can be appUed in the same way, but 

 should be worked in immediately.— C. E, P. 



850. Muslin in Hot-beds, I would not use 

 muslin as a winter covering for Cabbage or Let- 

 tuce plants, as it might not prove strong enough 

 enough to restst snt)w and ice. Glass alone 

 should Ix: used ff)r the purpose. For spring 

 work the muslin is excellent; it gives abundant 

 light ami plants do not become drawn.— C. E. P. 



870. Tomatoes not Bearing. Tour plants are 

 growing in too rich a soil. Dim't cut the tops off, 

 but thin out some of the weaker shoots, and 

 spread out the remaintier so as to expose them 

 to the light and air.— Chas. E. Pahnell. 



835. Oooseberries for Market. Downing ami 

 Houghton's Seedlings are the best. Cannot .say 

 as to the profits of the crop.— Chas. E. Pahnem.. 



829. Currants and Oooseberries. Set your 

 Currants and Gooseberries cuttings this fall. 

 Put them in a trench on a slant of 45°. Cover 

 two thirds the length and tread the soil as com- 

 pactly as you can get it. In the spring most of 

 them wiU be rooted and ready to set. Better 

 plant in an open lot away from trees. Set them 

 deep when planting. Keep the ground clean and 

 it must be well drainofi. Strong clay soil well 

 manured is Ix'tterthan sandy soil forithese fruits. 

 Set the rows nearly north and south if possible. 

 A south east exposure is bestfor all small fruits. 

 Mulch the young plants at least for the first 

 year. tJse coal ashes (anthracite.) long manure-', 

 tanbark, or sawdust.— E. P. Powell. 



842. Chestnuts for Illinois. I know of no rea- 

 son why the common sweet Chestnut would not 

 succeed with you. For prices of trees axldress 

 any reliable nurseryman.- C. E. P. 



843. Tree FESony not Blooming. I think that 

 the plant requires more nourishment. Early in 

 the fall give it a good dressing of well rotted 

 stable marnire. This to be dug in, in the spring. 



SJl. Plum Bat, There is no remedy for the 

 rot.— C. E. Paunell. 



»51. Protecting Young Tomatoes, I make 

 pai>er cones of thick paper, like coi-riieopiaH, that 

 will I'oMr the plants, putting on nights and tak- 

 uigoll days. They answer all purposes and are 

 easily cared for.- T. H. J. 



BfW. Seed Orowing, In a competitive trial of 

 four so called earliest Peas, I found Vi<:k8 se- 

 lecte<l extra early, the earliest, and a c:ontin- 

 uous bearer for a long time, though not so 

 advertised to be.— Mhs. T. H..I., R<,ck < reck, linea. 



79:t. Market Hydrangeas. These may be 

 obtained by taking in fall just before the lcav<« 

 drop, the tops of current year shoots with the 

 terminal bud well matured, and place In a pro- 

 jfating bed until rooted; then pot up in three 

 inch pots and iiut in a cool house to winter In 

 the spring shift into five inch pots just as growth 

 commences, when they will soon form good .sale- 

 able plants, with a head of bloom six inches 

 across. The main point is to see that the bud is 

 well matured and the wood about half riiiened 

 The pure white variety Thos. Hogg, Is well 

 adaptedtothis purpose.— E. (). O. 



815. Works on Botany, etc. As a good 

 standard work fin Botany, etc. "The Illustrated 

 Dictionary of Gardening" may Ix' strongly rec- 

 ommended. This is practically up to date, and 

 contains a description of all known plants of 

 horticultural value with full Botanical descrip- 

 tions and cultural directions. It is copiously 

 Illustrated and gives the meaning an<l deri\ ation 

 of all the names of plants descriix-d, with an ex- 

 planation of Botanical terms in general use. 



833. Barberries from Seeds. Seeds should be 

 gathered when ripe and separated from pulp by 

 fermentation. Keep in a dry place until February 

 then sow in heat and transplant mUi own air in 

 May.— E. (). Orpet. 



801. Fir Tree Oil is an English insecticide sold 

 sold by some American dealers. It is a thin 

 liquid and put up in bottles. Before using it is 

 to be largely diluted with water. Its value for 

 America is doubtful.— C. M. W. 



817. Black Ants, I wonder if your correspon- 

 dent is sure that black ants nip off Currants and 

 (Jooseberries. It is not generally supposed that 

 they do. They may be destroyed in their hills 

 by making a hole down the center with a sharp 

 stick, pouring in some gasoline or bisulphids of 

 carbon, covering the hole up. The liquid will 

 volatilize and permeate the earth.— C. M. Weed. 



818 Insects on drapes. You don't want to 

 "prevent the attacks of the bee, when in flower," 

 or else you want a small crop of fruit. The bees 

 are there to carry the pollen from blossom to 

 blossom and are doing you a favor. The wasps, 

 which cuts off the stem, are something new. dm 

 you get specimens and send to the editor.— 

 C. M. Weed. 



821. Mulberry Propagation. You can readily 

 increase these by taking cuttings two or three 

 feet in length in the spring, and inserting them 

 half their depth in the ground. Cuttings made 

 of pieces of the roots will also sen<l uj) shoots, 

 and produce good plants if carefully planted in 

 well prepared soli.— C. E. P. 



921. Delawares not Fruiting. This is a diffi- 

 cult question to answer off hand without per- 

 sonal inspection, and a study of all the conditions; 

 and even then the cases may be so obscure, as to 

 defeat inquiry. I can only guess at the causes. 

 If the vines never have fruited, they may not be 

 Delawares, but some male or stamlnate wedling; 

 the Delaware is one of our double sexcd, surest 

 fruiting varieties. Or if the failure is onl v f. ii- the 



season, there were probably sonieadvirse i li- 



tions while blossoming, such as u cold rain storm 

 that washed the pi>llen from off the .stigmas, or 

 hindered the production of pollen and lertiliza- 

 tion. Or as if the vines were over fruited last 

 year, their vigor may have been so impaired as 

 to render the i)roduction organs sterile this 

 seiuson. There may he some element lacking in 

 the soil; try nitrogenous manures, tus pollen is 

 mostly nitrogen. Thesis manures stimulat*' the 

 reiiroductive organs and promote fruitfulncss. 

 Get some Grapeman to look the vines over, and 

 see if it is not a male seedling, and have the con- 

 ditions looked into.— D. S. Marvin. 



823. Peaches and Grapes together. The phui 

 you propose to adopt will prove to be anything 

 but satisfactory.— C. E. P. 



827. Evergreens in Texas. I would transplant 

 them just iK'fore growth commences. Trv a 

 few White Pines licfore planting heavily. —C. E.P. 



829. Currants and Oooseberries. To propa- 

 gate these, plant in a lied of good soil, in the 

 autumn or early in the spring, slips or cuttings 

 about a foot in length. Tiiese will root with the 

 greatest facility. I would not for the sake of 

 shadi' plant tliein in the orchard, but in the oi>en 

 patrli: lutoic jilanting see that the ground is 

 properl.\- prepared.— C. E. P. 



832. Baspberries Stung. I don't umlerstand 

 this query. Do the pests injure the leaves, fruit 

 orstemV— C. E. Pakkei.i.. 



8:i7. Keeping Locusts from Sprouting. Cut 

 the shoots off as soon as they are a few inches 

 in height, with a sharp hoe, and inch or two 

 below the surface. This treatment repeated two 

 or three times will destroy them.— C. E. P. 



