General Notices. 407 



dies, because, from some cause inherent in itself, or external to it, its power 

 of elaborating sap is not strong enough to enable it to form roots ; and this 

 power is increased and rendered certain in a layer, because it derives its 

 juices from the parent plant. An incision is made upwaids at a joint, to 

 the extent of about half an inch, and a section of the stalk or stem is thus 

 presented, similar to the portion inserted in the soil in the case of a cutting ; 

 only it is half the substance or thickness. This cut portion is then firmly 

 inserted in fine soil, and fastened securely with a peg. The layer then 

 forms roots from two sources, — from its own vital mechanism, as in the 

 case of a cutting, and from the assistance derived from the original plant, 

 of which it still forms a part. When rooted, the layer is cut oif and potted, 

 and henceforth its growth is self sustained and independent. 



Where a great number of young shoots are available for propagation, a 

 very gentle heat should be created by means of a bed of leaves or cut 

 grass, on which a small frame should be placed. Sandy soil must then be 

 put in, to the depth of six inches, and the cuttings, with all their leaves, 

 firmly fixed as directed above. The glass being put on, the frame should 

 be kept close for a week, and shaded for a day or two ; and solar light 

 being gradually admitted, the young plants will form roots more rapidly 

 than in the open ground. Extremes of drought and moisture must be 

 carefully avoided, since the one will rot the plants at the cutting, and the 

 other will cause the soil to contract and leave the cutting bare. Failures 

 must be expected at first, but soon as great a certainty will characterize 

 these operations as most others. This is the proper time for pursuing 

 either of the above methods. — {Gard. Chron., 1848, p. 492.) 



Propagation of the Hollyhock. — Of late years, the hollyhock has assumed 

 a prominent place in the flower garden, especially in the south of Scot- 

 land, and, as this plant is very ornamental, both for the garden and the 

 shrubbery, I send you the mode of propagating it, which I have found to 

 be very successful, and at the same time very simple. In the month of 

 July, or beginning of August, take a stem of the sort you wish to increase, 

 and having divided that into lengths of two inches each cut, including an 

 eye or bud, slice the stem through the middle and pare the central pith en- 

 tirely out, so as to prevent rotting, leaving about three inches of the leaf- 

 stalk remaining at the bud, in the manner of fruit-budding ; having pre- 

 pared a little sandy soil suitable for striking cuttings, these buds are to be 

 inserted therein horizontally, about one inch below the surface, the leaf- 

 stalk protruding as an index of position ; a hand-glass is then put over 

 them, and in a few weeks they form nice little plants, like the current 

 year's seedlings, and flower luxuriantly the following season, if properly 

 treated.— ( Gar J. Chron., 1848, p. 493.) 



Disbudding Fruit Trees. — A friend of mine, whose attainments in gard- 

 ening are of no mean cast, although merely an amateur, complains that 

 the subject of disbudding, as applied to fruit trees in general, has not, as 

 yet, been treated of in a satisfactory way ; mere dry rules will not suflice, 

 reasons are required. He complains that even gardeners are not agreed as 

 to the extent to which such operations should be carried. This is car- 



