General Notices. 413 



ishing how very easily the flower-buds, when nearly ready to expand, are 

 acted upon by either heat or cold ; the variation of only a few degrees will 

 considerably affect them at this time, particularly if it be in the winter 

 season. In the spring, so much care is not required, as in general each 

 succeeding day is a little warmer than its predecessor, but, in the winter 

 months, when the weather is changeable, and plants are only excited by 

 artificial heat, the greatest care is necessary, in order to keep them from 

 advancing too much, and also not to allow the temperature to decrease, for 

 fear of the flower-buds. If it be desired to flower them only in the natural 

 time in the spring months, they ought to be kept as cool as possible during 

 winter, but, as the camellia is so easy of culture, if moderate attention be 

 paid to it, no flowers can be better adapted to bloom during the whole of 

 the winter months, when but few plants cheer us by their expanding blos- 

 soms. Every precaution is necessary to prevent worms from effecting 

 an entrance to the roots; if any do find their way, as soon as possible 

 water them once or twice with a weak solution of lime water, which will 

 speedily make them come out. If the weather continues favorable, that is, 

 without frost or excessive rains, do not take them into the house again 

 until October or perhaps the end of September, and keep them in a cold 

 situation till the blooming season. 



The foregoing observations apply to plants that are to produce flowers at 

 their usual season, but if they are wanted to flower in autumn or winter, it 

 is necessary they should be put into a growing state at least a month ear- 

 lier ; they should be taken out a month earlier in the spring, and be got out 

 of doors as early as possible in June, when they will be ready to be brought 

 into the greenhouse or conservatory to flower, by the end of September. 

 The heat required to expand the blossom-buds is by day about fifty-five de- 

 grees, and by night fifty degrees ; if this be attended to, and the atmos- 

 phere never allowed to reach a much higher or lower temperature, the 

 plants will continue in flower for a length of time. — (Gard. Jour., 1848, 

 p. 340.) 



Cultivation of Melons. — I wish to state, for the information of some of 

 your correspondents, who have on various occasions solicited information 

 on this subject, the system I have pursued with the greatest success, in the 

 cultivation of this much esteemed fruit. There is, perhaps, nothing novel 

 in the system I have pursued, and I would therefore observe, that I do not 

 wish to set it up as a model for experienced and intelligent gardeners. I 

 will suppose that every one who is in the slightest degree conversant with 

 his profession must understand how to manage the seedling plants. When 

 the young plants have formed three perfect leaves I stop them ; and having 

 a frame prepared for their reception, with not less than twelve inches of 

 good loam, trodden firmly down ; when in a fit state, I turn out the plants, 

 one under the centre of each light. I now select some of the strongest 

 shoots, and train, generally, four each way, viz., to back and front of the 

 frame, not stopping till they reach the outside. The system of pinching 

 and stopping, which I have frequently seen practised, ought to be avoided, 

 as it only tends to engender canker, and impairs the health and vigor of the 

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