THE PEAR. 53 



the ash the first season after working." The 

 London Horticultural Society tried the above, and 

 reported : " That the fruit was produced at an 

 earlier age, of good size ; the trees did not seem 

 as if they would be long-lived, owing to the une- 

 qual swelling of the respective species. The pear 

 increased in diameter more rapidly than the ash ; 

 but as the latter is more hardy than the quince, 

 and will thrive in almost any soil, it might be 

 used advantageously in some situations." M. 

 Floss, a Prussian gardener, grows pears on sandy 

 soils, by grafting them on this stock. 



The distance at which pear trees should be set, 

 in the orchard or garden, depends in some mea- 

 sure upon the soil and aspect ; but thirty feet is 

 about the maximum distance in the best soils, and 

 from eight to ten feet, when grown upon the 

 quince or thorn. Trees engrafted or budded upon 

 the quince, should be done as near the root as 

 possible. This budding, which we prefer to graft- 

 ing, is performed when the bark will separate en- 

 tirely from the wood, which, in this latitude, takes 

 place in August, and sometimes in September. 

 The following spring, when the bud is developing, 

 cut off the stock to within two joints of the bud, 

 and not until midsummer finish, or cut the snag 

 smoothly to the shoot. At the third season, the 

 trees maybe removed to the situation for fruiting ; 

 and in resetting them, the stock should be placed 

 at least one inch below the insertion of the bud, as 

 shown in the preceding cut of a trained tree. 



Thus, setting the stock below the bud or scion 



will preserve them from the frosts of winter, and 



the borer in midsummer. In order to obtain fruit 



early upon dwarf pears, the side shoots or spurs 



5* 



