4 FRUIT BOOK. 



weak to force their way back into the soil, will be 

 doubled up, which often causes knobs, and throws 

 out suckers; neither will the earth require to be 

 trodden down hard, but gently ; or if the soil be 

 that of a dry or loose loamy nature, setting in puddle 

 (which is to water as you set it) is an excellent 

 process. Copious watering after a tree is set, is 

 often very prejudicial, as it will frequently wash 

 away the soil, and leave open spaces around the 

 roots. Fruit trees should rarely be placed deeper 

 in the ground than they originally stood in the nur- 

 sery. In removing large trees, it is a good prac- 

 tice to cut off* many of the large roots some distance 

 from the tree a year previous to their removal ; for, 

 wherever the roots are thus cut through, the new 

 fibres which are emitted (provided the tree is in 

 health) in short tufts, are far more easily taken out 

 of the ground without injury, than if they were 

 longer and more scattered among the soil. 



Autumnal planting is often preferred in light 

 sandy soils, and spring planting on soils of a strong 

 and wet nature. From our own experience in set- 

 ting fruit trees for some years past, we are inclined 

 to prefer the spring, provided it can be done early, 

 particularly for stone fruit. Damp, but not rainy 

 weather should be preferred, particularly in dry 

 soils ; nothing is more injurious to any tree than to 

 be taken up, even if immediately afterwards plant- 

 ed, during frosty or dry windy weather. Not only 

 do the roots, under such circumstances, sustain 

 injury during the time they are thus exposed, but 



