TAKING TO THE TRAIL 9 



incidentally satisfying long pent-up literary am- 

 bitions. He was indeed making his mark as edi- 

 tor pro tern. Every issue of the paper during 

 his incumbency contained items uncompliment- 

 ary to the absent editor and some really remark- 

 able editorials upon various matters, as well 

 as startling and bold comments on local people 

 and local affairs. I never heard what hap- 

 pened when the editor, who had a good deal 

 of pride in the dignity of his paper, returned 

 to resume his chair. 



Upon Mr. Clark's recommendation and with 

 his assistance I engaged as guide, John Lewis, 

 a former United States forest ranger and a man 

 particularly well acquainted with the wilder- 

 ness which I proposed to traverse. Lewis lived 

 on his ranch near Pinedale, a small settlement 

 fifty miles to the southward, and it was ar- 

 ranged that he should meet me in Pinedale 

 two days later, endeavoring in the meantime to 

 secure the horses necessary for our journey. 



On the day following my arrival at Holbrook 

 the country was visited by a terrific thunder- 

 storm, accompanied by high wind and a three 

 hours' downpour of rain. Before the storm 

 the bed of the Rio Puerco, which joins the Lit- 

 tle Colorado River here, was as dry as ashes; 

 when the rain ceased it was flowing three feet 



