310 NIMROD OF THE SEA ; OR, 



incoming roller, and diving to allow it to pass over them, 

 bearing on its crests some of their playmates, and soon again 

 they regained the outside of the breakers, pushing their board 

 with them. Here they would mount the board again, to ca- 

 reer once more over the frightful course ; and thus they played 

 by the hour, far happier than beaux and belles in the ball- 

 room. The wilder the surf, the more intense their enjoy- 

 ment of it. The surf-board seemed about five feet long, and 

 a foot wide, turned up a little in front. It was placed length- 

 wise under the breast as they rode on. the crest of the wave. 



