THE ALMOND. 29 



appear, for the object is to throw the entire strength of 

 the stock into this one bud, and when this has made a 

 growth of two or three feet the short stump of the stock 

 above the base of the shoot may be carefully removed 

 with a sharp knife. This is usually done the last of 

 July or first of August, which gives time for the healing 

 of the wound before the close of the growing season. 

 Sometimes it may be necessary to place small stakes by 

 the side of these shoots for their support and to prevent 

 breaking at the point of union with the stock; but 

 this will rarely be necessary, except in very exposed 

 situations. 



If the young trees make a fairly good growth they 

 will be ready for planting out in the orchard the follow- 

 ing spring, and one-year-old almond trees are usually 

 preferable for transplanting than older. It is not ad- 

 visable to prune these young trees during the growing 

 season the first summer, but allow all the side shoots or 

 branches to grow unchecked, for by so doing we secure 

 a more stocky plant, if not as tall a one, than we would 

 if trimming up was practiced. But when the trees are 

 taken up for transplanting, in the late fall or early 

 spring, then they may be pruned and the lateral 

 branches cut ofi close to the main stem, leaving a naked 

 rod, and if low-headed trees are desired (and they usu- 

 ally are), cut back the main stem to about three feet 

 from the ground. If the young trees have made a 

 growth of from four to six feet, then prune away the 

 lateral branches to a hight of three feet or a little more, 

 and cut in all branches above this point to within four 

 to six inches of the main stem, leaving the buds on these 

 stumps to form the head of the tree. Four or five 

 branches at the top of the stem will be sufficient for the 

 foundation for an open, round-headed tree, or in what 

 may be termed a vase form, which is the best for 

 almonds. 



