THE ART OP WINE MAKING. 205 



found, that under such course the wine has 

 become too rich, and more difficult of con- 

 servation. It has, moreover, been observed, 

 that where the must has not received this pre- 

 parative process, the fermentation is more active 

 and regular. The stem may be regarded there- 

 fore as an useful auxiliary in the fermentation, 

 particularly when there may be reason appre- 

 hended that the decomposition will be rapid and 

 incomplete, promoting the fermentation, and 

 giving a duration to the wine which otherwise 

 it would not possess, but imparting at the same 

 time a harshness which injuriously affects the 

 character of the vintage. The practice is adopt- 

 ed by some and condemned by others. What- 

 ever method shall be pursued by the vintner, it 

 is imperative that the fruit be completely and 

 effectually crushed in the mashing tub, without 

 which the fermentation will be partial and sluggish 

 in its operation. The duration of this important 

 process will be injuriously prolonged, and the 

 wines affected unfavourably. The necessity of 

 a skilful fermentation is unversally admitted, but 

 the opinions vary among vintners as to the most 

 judicious mode of conducting it. In Champaigne 

 the fruit is thrown into a case or box, of the di- 

 mensions of four feet square, which is open at 

 the top, and in which the grapes are thrown as 

 they are brought from the vineyard. This case 

 has at the four sides longitudinal interstices, be- 

 tween each board or stave. These openings are 

 of such width as to allow the liquor freely to pass 

 off, as it is forced by the pressure of the screw, 

 but yet sufficiently close to retain the mash 

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