224 THE ART OP WINE MAKING. 



Some vintners profess to decide from a variety 

 of signs and circumstances, the precise moment 

 at which the action of the one has ceased, and 

 that of the other is fairly in operation. These 

 phenomena vary (it must be apparent to the 

 slightest observation) both in force and duration, 

 with the variations of climate and changes of 

 season, as well as from the nature and quantity 

 of the must and the mass. 



It is, therefore, easy to conceive, on a little re- 

 flection, that it becomes impossible to fix the pre- 

 cise moment most favourable to this important 

 'part of the wine making, and that all these sys- 

 tems which profess for their principal object the 

 establishing of a fixed period for the " decu- 

 vage" must in their nature be vague and unte- 

 nable. 



The only sure guide in this case, is carefully 

 to observe the course and progress of the decom- 

 position of the principle of sugar. 



The object to be accomplished by the fermen- 

 tation, being the transformation of the liquor into 

 alcohol, it is desirable that the action should be 

 energetic, and continued, rather than abundant. 

 Accordingly, the grapes of the southern vineyard 

 should be suffered to remain longer in the mash, 

 than those of a northern climate. 



In considering this operation, another import- 

 ant feature must be constantly in view, that is, 

 that there is a constant disengagement of heat, 

 and of carbonic acid. By the one, the perfume 

 which constitutes the chief merit of many fine 

 wines, is volatilized and dissipated ; and the other 

 flies off and escapes, charged with a large portion 



