CHAPTER II. 



NARRATIVE OF MARCH TO THE YELLOW RIVER. 



T^HE 28th of September broke fine and clear, and in the courtyard of the 

 house which had sheltered the members of the expedition since the middle 

 of July all was bustle and excitement. Outside, the street was crowded with 

 mules, braying and kicking, their drivers busy roping up the last few loads. 

 But by eleven o'clock the last load had been hoisted on to the last mule, and 

 the long train, slowly working its way across the city, passed out through the 

 Western gate to a stretch of level flats already bared of their rich crops of 

 grain. It made a striking picture as it crossed the low-lying land between the 

 muddy waters of the F^n Ho and the great dyke raised to shield the city from 

 the summer floods. The pack-animals, each with his jangling bells, 

 swinging tassels and waving pompons, were kept in single file by their 

 drivers, who swore at them, cracked their whips, and seemed anxious generally 

 to outrival the bellowing of their charges. The animals were all fresh, well- 

 conditioned, and full of fight, and, though their spirits calmed down 

 wonderfully after a few marches, always ready to give trouble. 



It had been decided to make the first stage a very short one, so after 

 fording the river without any mishap, we pitched our camp on the threshing- 

 floor of a village named Nan-shih, about five miles west of T'ai-yiian Fu. 

 This village was the home of our shikari, Josephus, and he and all his people 

 did their best to make things comfortable for us. The loads were deposited 

 in a field hard by, and the servants set to work with a will on pitching tents 

 and erecting our cooking-stove, and although their good intentions were 

 hampered by a lack of experience, everybody was comparatively snug and 

 comfortable by nightfall. Two policemen had been sent by the Yang-wu-chti 

 (Board of Foreign Affairs) " to protect the foreigners," and were set to guard 

 the loads. These worthies, not relishing the task, hunted up the head-man 

 of the village, and warning him that he would be held responsible in case of 

 theft, ordered him to send someone to watch the things. This proved to be 

 a very sound and sensible arrangement, and the practice was adhered to 

 throughout the whole expedition. The servants, as was to be expected, found 

 the greatest difficulty in preparing food ; but as they gained in experience, and 

 got at home in the new conditions, our meals became soon quite appetizing. 

 There were five tents in all, of which two were occupied by the Staff, one by 



