The road branched off to the east up a small ravine about a mile north of 

 Fu Chou, and at this point two or three inns and a few miserable houses 

 formed the village of Ts'a-f6ng ; and here we halted. This stage is reckoned 

 to be eighty-five It. At this time of year travelling was anything but pleasant, 

 owing to the severe cold. The inns were never warm, the badly-fitting doors 

 and torn windows admitted streams of cold air, which effectually counteracted 

 any benefits accruing from the use of charcoal braziers and a small portable 

 stove. The innkeepers are far too poor to keep the kang fires lighted during 

 the day, and as these estimable contrivances take some hours to heat up, and 

 in addition smoke abominably, they were tabooed. By hanging up waterproof 

 sheets over the doors and windows we could manage to render the temperature 

 a little more endurable ; but bed was the only really comfortable place. The 

 early rising, necessitated by our desire to cover long stages every day, was 

 perhaps the hardest trial, although again precedence might be given to the 

 keen head wind which, in spite of the heaviest clothing, seemed on some days 

 to cut through to the very bone. Usually, however, when once fairly on the 

 move, we found that the interests of the road, the not infrequent opportunities 

 of sport, and the varying scenery kept us from noticing the low temperature 

 and the biting wind. The road was in excellent condition, and in that way 

 did credit to the soldiers who made it. But it is probable that the absence of 

 wheeled traffic had more to do with its present smooth surface than anything 

 else. At first it was hard to understand why no carts made use of this 

 magnificent road, but after seeing some of the gradients no further explanation 

 was necessary. The only wonder that remained then was why so much 

 labour should have been expended to construct a cart road, whilst such 

 important details as suitable gradients, easily obtainable with very little extra 

 work, had been utterly neglected. However, even this is explainable by the 

 reflection that the work was carried out by Chinese. 



Leaving Ts'a-f6ng before daybreak, we travelled for a short distance up 

 the small ravine which we had entered the night before. Snow commenced 

 to fall, and alas ! for hastily formed opinions, the road became abominable. 

 Its smooth surface becoming greasy offered no foothold, and as several steep 

 ascents had to be made, travelling became not only unpleasant, but distinctly 

 dangerous. The mules with their heavy loads had the greater difficulty in 

 keeping their feet, but even the ponies floundered about in a most distressing 

 manner. However, the badness of the road led to no mishap, though Clark 

 met in another fashion with a most unfortunate accident. In stepping from a 

 high kang in an inn, where the party stopped for lunch, he slipped and 



35 



