For the greater part it is lined with rows of lofty trees, limes, elms, and 

 poplars. The majority of these were planted by General Ma's troops after 

 they had quelled the Mohammedan rebellion ; hence the road is known as 

 " Ma's Avenue." The notorious Tung Fu-shang similarly planted with trees 

 many of the parts neglected by General Ma. Needless to say in a country 

 so barren as the greater part of Kansu, these trees afford an inestimable boon 

 to the jaded traveller. There are, of course, some pleasant spots along 

 this wearisome highroad, such as the eastern slopes of the Yung-yao Pass, 

 and the country adjoining the Yung-shou Hsien Pass, about four days' journey 

 from Hsi-an Fu ; but for days together the traveller may see nothing but bare, 

 brown hills, and dry, stony valleys. The country from Ching-ning Chou to 

 Lan-chou Fu was suffering from a protracted drought. The natives said 

 that insufficient rain had fallen for three years. The dust was terrible, and 

 it was with no little satisfaction that we arrived at the end of our nineteen 

 days' journey, to find the other members of the expedition, whom we had not 

 seen for months, comfortably ensconced in a pleasant garden outside the walls 

 of Lan-chou. 



54 



