" Later on we met a wealthy Kashgari, who had been trading in the 

 south of the province. He was seated in a large cart, evidently not of Chinese 

 build, to which three horses were harnessed abreast, in Russian fashion. 



" We continued to pass numerous carts and strings of camels and mules, 

 which testified to the popularity of the road as a trade route. 



" At Wa-kang-ch'6ng, a large village about ten miles from Lan-chou, the 

 inhabitants were engaged in the manufacture of rough earthenware vessels, 

 clay being plentiful in the district and fair coal obtainable in the neighbouring 

 ravine. 



" About thirteen miles from Lan-chou, vegetation became denser and the 

 watercourse, which had been dry up to now, commenced to hold a streamlet 

 of water. We wound up the ravine for another two miles and then began a 

 steep ascent to the summit of the pass (6500 feet), whence we descended a 

 steep ravine to the village of Ma-chia-k'ou. Here we decided to halt for a day, 

 as the surveyor wished to visit some of the neighbouring peaks for purposes of 

 triangulation. 



** Although everyone appeared perfectly friendly, I thought it better to 

 re-iterate my warnings to Hazrat Ali never to work unarmed and always to 

 take one of the Chinese soldiers with him on his excursions, as a sign that the 

 party was travelling under official sanction. 



** On June 21st, Hazrat Ali started at an early hour to commence his 

 survey from one of the high peaks about six miles to the east of our camp. 



** Unfortunately I was called away on some camp duty and missed seeing 

 him before he left. I was consequently much annoyed to find later on that 

 he was not accompanied by one of the escort. His servant assured me, how- 

 ever, that he had gone out well armed, so that there appeared to be no cause 

 for anxiety. 



** Rain fell heavily during the day, and, as I knew this would interfere 

 considerably with the progress of the survey, I did not expect Hazrat Ali to 

 return until towards nightfall, as I knew how conscientiously he always 

 carried out his day's work. 



" As night drew in without his returning, I decided to take out guides to 

 his assistance, in case he should lose his way in the darkness. 



" As our party was on the point of setting out, one of the plane-table 

 coolies crawled into camp, covered with wounds and with his arm broken. 



" The poor fellow informed us that the survey party had been attacked, 

 without warning or provocation, by a large gang of natives from the villages 



64 



