BOATING ADVENTURES. 35 



crutches made of knees, and are fastened with loops of 

 twisted bircli root. The boat then tapers rapidly aft, and 

 ends in a sharp stern rising like the bow, but not so much. 

 Close aft sits a second rower who works another pair of 

 sculls ; and right aft, in the very stern, the steersman 

 stands up and works a broad spade-handled paddle in a 

 loop of birch roots. The length of the boat may be about 

 thirty feet, the greatest width about five. 



1 The river was about as broad as the Thames at Rich- 

 mond, with a good stream of clear water, which promised 

 well for rapids, on the journey of 300 miles which lay 

 between us and the sea. 



' The river banks are low and sandy, covered with 

 stunted forest, except where the land has been cleared for 

 farming. The crops, chiefly barley, were being carried 

 home. The sheaves were hung upon tall racks made of 

 fir trees, and the ears were turned to the sun. 



'The night was frosty and beautifully clear. 



' Saturday, 8th September 1849. Our intention being to 

 get to Muonioniska, we rose early and started at six. The 

 morning was magnificent, but very cold; stubble, sand, 

 corn, trees, everything, was glittering in the sunshine, as 

 if powdered with diamonds ; and the pools were covered 

 with ice a quarter of an inch thick. 



' Our boat was manned by three large sturdy men, dressed 

 in blue woollen, with mittens to keep their hands warm ; 

 and we seated ourselves upon our traps in the middle of 

 the boat, wrapped in plaids and great-coats, with guns 

 for pot-shooting. 



' We could not talk to our men, so we gave them some 

 'baccy, and grinned and talked to each other. 



' The river for some ten miles or so was unchanged. 

 There were low banks, low islands, firs, and birches, and 

 here and there a slight stream unworthy of the name of 

 rapid. 



' Our men pulled well and fast, changing now and then, 

 till we reached a station where we landed. We were to 

 change boat and crew, but knew nothing about our fate 



