38 THE FOREST LANDS OF FINLAND. 



and it was very dangerous, though not so beautiful, as 

 yesterday's rapids. Looking back from below, the river 

 seemed a mass of broken white water amongst a steep 

 pile of rounded stones. 



' Then came a long stretch of broad, still water, to a place 

 called (I think) Oolicola Muonio ; and then we came to 

 Muonionsika itself. 



' This town is half in Russia, half in Sweden ; it con- 

 tains a church, a merchant's house, and a lot of excellent 

 wooden houses, It is less a town than a cluster of 

 detached farm-houses, each with farm-steading, corn-rack, 

 and offices. The best sort are painted red, the rest are 

 grey from the weathering of the bare wood. 



' Here we were hospitably entertained by the mer- 

 chant's wife, and slept on beds of down. 



' Sept. 10. Rose early from the first beds we had slept 

 in for ten days ; had a famous breakfast, and departed. 



' Our new crew of three had to break their way through 

 ice in a creek below the house. They were engaged to 

 take us all the way to Torneo; and one spoke a little 

 English, which was truly English in kind. With them 

 came a hard-featured, sharp-looking fellow, who was to 

 steer us down the famous Aiomboika Foss. He is sup- 

 posed to be the only man that can do it, and receives a 

 tax of about two shillings (English) for conducting boats 

 that require his services. It is possible to walk, but we 

 wanted to see the fun. The morning had been very fine, 

 but by 1.30 P.M., when we started, the hills had vanished 

 in mist, and there was a drizzling rain, which promised to 

 get worse, and kept its word. As soon as we were seated, 

 the men shoved off, and after a little splashing in ice, we 

 got to the open river. The new boat was like the last, but 

 rough fir boards were fastened to the sides to resist the 

 heavy water. 



' The famous steersman, looking placid, chewed a quid, 

 and took his place and the paddle, without taking off his 

 mittens. Behind him, peering over his shoulders, was 

 the youngest of our crew. The old bird was teaching the 



