64: 



The Garden. 



buds which are to be used lie in the angle on the upper side 

 of these stems. 



Budding is generally performed in the summer or earlj part 

 of autumn. It is essential to success — 1st. That the lyarTc of 

 the stock should part freely from the wood^ and 2d. Thxit the 

 T)ud which is to he inserted should he well ripened, otherwise it 

 will not have vital energy sufficient to establish itself in its 

 new location. "Whenever these conditions can be secured, 

 budding may be successfully performed. The buds put in 

 early, however, especially in the South, make a considerable 

 growth the same season. Buds should be inserted on the 

 north side of the stock, if practicable. The operation is one 

 of some nicety, and to be successful must be performed rapidly^ 

 and with fresh, healthy huds, smooth cuts, and cleanly rising 

 larTc. A few days after budding, the stock should be cut off 

 within ten or twelve inches of the bud, and when this has 

 grown three or four inches, the stock may be cut off again 

 near the budded shoot. All sprouts, or "robbers," as they are 

 called, that appear on the stock must be carefully removed. 

 Care should also be taken not to allow branches 

 from the main shoot of the bud to grow, and to 

 secure an upright position of it, a ligature of the 

 matting may be passed around the sprout and the 

 upper end of the old stock. 



In spring budding, some gardeners recommend 

 to make the incisions in the form of an inverted 

 ±, but we see no good reason for this inversion, 

 and believe that the other mode is equally suc- 

 cessful. 



Annular budding is applied with success to trees 

 of hard wood and thick bark, or those which, like 

 the walnut, have buds so large as to render the 

 common mode of budding difficult and uncertain. 

 A ring of bark is taken from the stock, and one of 

 equal size, containing a bud, from the scion. If 

 the stock be larger than the scion, an entire ring 



TREATMENT OF 

 TUB BCD. 



