Chap. 23.] OBSERVATIONS RELATIVE TO WINE. 473 



eats them away ; and yet we, on the other hand, persuade 

 ourselves that an adventitious age may be imparted to wines 

 by the bitter twang derived from smoke ! 81 



Those wines which are extremely pale, become more whole- 

 some the older they are. The more generous 82 a wine is, the 

 thicker it becomes with age ; while, at the same time, it 

 contracts a bitter flavour, which is far from exercising a bene- 

 ficial effect upon the health. To season another wine, that is 

 not so old, with this, is nothing less than to make an unwhole- 

 some preparation. The more of its own natural flavour 83 a 

 wine possesses, the more wholesome it is ; and the best age for 

 a wine is that which naturally belongs to it, a medium age 

 being the one that is the most generaUy esteemed. 



CHAP. 23. SIXTY-ONE OBSERVATIONS RELATIVE TO WINE. 



Persons whose wish it is to make flesh, or to keep the bowels 

 relaxed, will do well to drink while taking their food. Those, 

 on the other hand, who wish to reduce themselves, or prevent 

 the bowels from being relaxed, should abstain from drinking 

 while taking their meals, and drink but a very little only 

 when they have done eating. To drink wine fasting is a 

 fashion of recent introduction 84 only, and an extremely bad 

 one for persons engaged in matters of importance, and requir- 

 ing a continued application of the mental faculties. Wine, no 

 doubt, was taken fasting in ancient times, but then it was as 

 a preparative for sleep and repose from worldly cares ; and it 

 is for this reason that, in Homer, 85 we find Helen presenting 

 it to the guests before the repast. It is upon this fact, too, 

 that the common proverb is founded, which says that " wis- 

 dom is obscured by wine." 86 It is to wine that we men are 

 indebted for being the only animated beings that drink without 

 being thirsty. When drinking wine, it is a very good plan to 

 take a draught of water every now and then ; and to take one 

 long draught of it at the last, cold water taken internally 

 having the. effect of instantaneously dispelling inebriation. 



81 While the ancients thought that the cariousness or results of old age 

 were removed by the agency of smoke. 



82 See B. xiv. c. 6. 83 " Saliva." 



84 In the time of the Emperor Tiberius. See B. xiv. c. 28. 



85 Odyssey, B. iv. 1. 219, et seq : 



86 " Sapientiam vino obumbrari." 



