APRIL 79 



with butter is a hint well worth remembering, and should 

 be universally applied in the roasting of all birds. I 

 noticed that all roast meat was basted with fat or butter, 

 and the gravy served just as it was, without straining or 

 clarifying, with all the goodness of the meat in it. This 

 we have practised ever since at home, with great 

 approval. Many people would object to this as greasy. 

 I only say, ' Try it.' 



A very good, easily made French soup is as follows : 

 Potag*e Paysanne. Cut one large onion into dice, 

 put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, and fry 

 a nice golden colour. Then take a half -inch-thick slice 

 of bread toasted to the same colour ; break it into small 

 pieces, and put them into the stewpan with a pint of good 

 stock. Simmer gently for thirty-five minutes, then 

 serve. Quantity for four persons. 



The following receipt for a tame duck I can tho- 

 roughly recommend ; if you follow it exactly, it cannot go 

 wrong : 



Caneton a I'Drange. Take a good fat duck, clean 

 it out, and put the liver apart. Singe the duck, and clean 

 it very carefully. Then mince the liver with a little 

 onion and some grated bacon or ham, add salt and 

 pepper. Put the stuffing inside the duck. Now close 

 the opening of the duck ; leave the skin of the neck long, 

 and bring it round under the duck to close the tail- 

 Spread on the table a clean pudding-cloth, and roll the 

 duck in this rather tightly, to preserve the shape. Tie up 

 the two ends of the cloth with string. Put into a stew- 

 pan, with boiling salted water. Continue to boil it quietly 

 for one hour for an ordinary duck, one hour and ten 

 minutes if large ; it will then be cooked, and ought to be 

 a good pink colour. (Chickens boiled in the same way are 

 excellent.) Take three oranges, peel them with a spoon, 

 cut the peel in quarters, taking out all the white ; shred the 



