PRUNING PEAR TREES 1017 



WINTER PRUNING PREFERABLE 



We prefer late winter rather than autumn for such work, 

 because the trees are then dormant, and also because a severe 

 winter will often kill back the branches below the cut, thus involv- 

 ing a repetition of the work. Prunning should never be done in 

 frcc/inir weather, nor should it be left until the sap has swelled the 

 buds, as in either case a serious loss of vitality will result. 



METHODS 



When pruning involves the removal of a large portion of the 

 annual growth, which is quite necessary in the Kieffers, it is well 

 to remember that the cut should be ma<Je immediately above a 

 bud : if m a do below or between buds, that portion left very often 

 dies back to the bud, leaving a decaying stem which may prove a 

 direct injury. 



It is also a good plan in removing large branches to cut twice, 

 making the first cut at least a foot above the point selected, to pre- 

 vent the wood from splitting down and tearing off the bark. 

 After the first cut has been- made and the weight of the branch 

 removed, a second cut is made, holding the stub until the cut is 

 completed ; this prevents the splitting and tearing off of the bark 

 which is likely to result from careless removal of large branches. 

 All wounds should be left smooth, as the healing process will 

 start much more quickly than if a jagged surface is left. 



PROTECTING WOUNDS 



Many fruit growers and tree surgeons paint the exposed sur- 

 faces of a tree or a limb after pruning with tar, white lead, shellac, 

 or ordinary paint ; although many practical tree men use no cover- 

 inir whatever. We have had excellent results from both systems. 



PRUNING FOR BLIGHT 



It is well known that pear trees are subject to blight, and when 

 it is discovered no time should be lost in cutting out the diseased 

 wood, at least eight inches below the infected part. All infected 

 branches and twigs should be immediately gathered and burned, 



