FRUIT PRODUCTION 189 



Heavy soils are well suited to the growth of apples and 

 pears; while the lighter soils are better for peaches, American 

 plums and grapes. 



The propagation of fruit trees at home and in nurseries 

 has been described. (See Chap. III.) 



When to Plant Fruit Trees. — The age of a fruit tree is 

 counted from the time of its first spring growth after budding 

 or grafting. 



Peach and plum trees are usually transplanted to the 

 orchard after one season's growth in the nursery. They are 

 then called yearling trees. 



Apple trees for orchard planting may be either one or two 

 years old. Some orchardists prefer the younger trees, while 

 others want them older. 



The planting may be done in late fall or early spring, the 

 latter being preferred. 



Setting Orchard Trees. — As much fibrous root should 

 be preserved as possible. The roots should be kept from 

 the wind and sun to prevent drying out. As soon as delivered 

 at the orchard, heel them in. That means to cover the roots 

 with soil in a temporary trench. 



The holes should be large and some of the best loose dirt 

 thrown in the bottom before the tree is placed in it. The 

 roots are to be straightened out, not bent. Pack the richest 

 dirt well, but leave a mulch of loose soil on top to prevent 

 evaporation of soil moisture. 



In dry weather and in dry climates it is well to haul 

 water in barrels or tanks and water each tree soon after it is 

 set. The loose soil is to be put on after the water has soaked 

 into the soil. 



Principles of Pruning. — The pruning of trees is very 

 essential in securing the best results in fruit growing. Var- 

 ious parts naturally crowd each other; the fruit is smaller 

 as a result of this. Twigs or branches become diseased and 

 should be cut out. Limbs may break in the wind and should 



