FUERTEVENTURA 5 



little from his head. This slight raising of the hat, 

 accompanied as it was by an almost imperceptible bow 

 of his head as he stepped aside, was quite a feature in 

 connection with Lorenzo's conversation, and seemed to 

 act as a sort of polite full stop thereto ; it said, as plainly 

 as words could say, " There, gentlemen, I have done 

 all I can to enlighten you, we will now let the subject 

 drop." 



Many things are necessary to an even passably 

 enjoyable sojourn in F^uerteventura, among them being 

 a plentiful supply of food and good water, letters of 

 introduction, and some means of understanding the in- 

 habitants of the island. With my own personal luggage 

 and my photographic appliances it will therefore be 

 evident that my baggage was considerable ; but as 

 the only method of transport in Fuerteventura is by 

 means of camels, and these animals seem to be totally 

 indifferent as to whether they carry one package or a 

 dozen, there is no reason why the traveller should not 

 take all his belongings with him. 



Thus it was that four o'clock on a certain Monday 

 morning, March 6th, 1899, found me ready to start, 

 with my luggage packed ; while outside the hotel at 

 Orotava, waiting in the half-light, was to be made out 

 a carriage and pair, the figure of Lorenzo presently 

 taking shape out of the gloom, as with a buenos dias, 

 SeTwr, he passed me to go inside and bring out my 

 luggage. I found it exceedingly cold, for it can be 

 cold before sunrise even in Tenerife, and I noticed that 

 there was a fresh covering of snow on the Peak, which 

 rose up, white and chill, against the dim background of 

 sky. Although I had with me an overcoat and a rug, 



