240 THE WILDS OF SUTHERLAND. 



been consumed to accommodate the vast flocks of 

 Cheviots ; the grouse were regularly distributed 

 and healthy ; while old deer with noble heads 

 were far more common than in these modern days 

 of cost and preservation, when numbers are made 

 to atone for lack of size and high bearing. 



The so-called vermin have disappeared, and no 

 wonder. Like Indian scalps, a bribe is paid down 

 by the shooting .tenants for the head of each 

 winged or footed creature of prey ; and as this 

 blood-money graduates in value from the nobler 

 to the meaner birds or animals, of course the skill 

 and cupidity of the keepers is chiefly directed to 

 those magnificent specimens long ago driven to 

 remote Highland tracts, but now in a fair way of 

 being extirpated altogether. 



The " iron road " now ends at Bonar Bridge, on 

 the confines of Sutherland ; so, in order to pene- 

 trate the lonesome straths and mountain roads of 

 this sheep and deer grazed province, my son and 

 I hired a neat little waggonette from Ardgay. 



After baiting at Lairg, the first day's drive 

 brought us to Altnaharra at half-past seven in 

 the evening. The inn was exactly in the same 



