24 THE ORCHARD ASD FRTJIT GARDES". 



beginning with a turn just above the bud, working to a 

 little below the incision, and upwards to a little above it. 

 The leaf-stalk should be left to the bud to hold it by. 



In unfavourable seasons a watering with llq'uid ma- 

 nure at a temperature of 90 may be given to the 

 parent tree the day before, to make the sap rise. 



"When the bud is fixed, tie a leaf from an evergreen 

 by each end, to arch over the newly inserted bud, to 

 shade it. 



In a few weeks the buds should be looked at, and the 

 ties loosened if they seem too tight ; and they may be 

 removed when the bud has firmly grown into the stock. 



For niche-budding the bud is cut with a stouter 

 shield, which is cut straight at the bottom. A notch is 

 then made in the stock, round at the top and flat at the 

 bottom, for the shield to fit into exactly, and in adjusting 

 it care is taken to unite the inner bark of stock and 

 shield. As it is the inner bark which grows, as in 

 grafting, this is rather on the principle of grafting than 

 of budding, in which it is the bud which throws its fibres 

 into the stock. Some persons consider that for this 

 budding a spot should be chosen in the stock where a 

 bud is removed. 



Annular budding is similar in character. The branch 

 from which the bud is taken must be as thick as the 

 stock ; if a little thicker it is of no consequence. A 

 ring of bark with a bud on it, opened at one side to let 

 it off, is taken, a ring like it is removed from the stock, 

 and the ring with the bud put on and tied. It is 

 considered to answer very well with thick-barked trees. 



Eeginners in grafting and budding would do well to 

 get the opportunity of watching the process under the 

 hands of dexterous operators, and having once seen it, 

 written instructions can be much more readilv followed. 



